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ECU Reset<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

On early MYs (especially pre MY97) the ECU retards the ignition when knock is detected, however, it is very slow to advance the timing again. An ECU reset will restore the car to factory default settings.  This will remove any stored fault codes and restore ignition advance.  It is possible to reset the ECU by following these steps:

<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /> Turn ignition OFF

Connect Read Memory Connectors & Test Mode Connectors

(jumper 5) [black connectors] – (jumper 6) [green connectors]

Turn ignition ON (engine off)

Engine Check lamp turns on

Depress accelerator pedal completely

Then return it to the half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds

Release pedal completely

Start engine

Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If a fault is detected - Check ECU Code

If no fault is detected - drive the car sensible for a couple of minutes

i.e. until warm (do not run tall & do not thrash it!)

When the ECU has been reset the Check Engine Light will flash

Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If a fault is detected Check ECU Code

Turn ignition OFF & Disconnect Connectors

If there is a fault Check Appropriate Sensor

 

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Finding Those Connectors

As said above, in order to perform diagnostic & ECU resets you need to find the Black Read Memory Connectors & the Green Test mode Connectors (alternatively there is the dash option shown above but this is even more tricky). The connectors are located under the dash up by the steering column. If they have not been used before they are usually taped quite high up & can be difficult to find, but they are there, once untaped they dangle down and are quite easy to use. Here is a poor photograph of the Black Read Memory Connectors & Green Test Mode Connectors on my Scooby.

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I have no idea how long you have to disconnect the battery and it may vary so you could be in some doubt as to whether the ECU has actually reset.

Doing it as set out above means for sure that you have actually done the job properly because you see the flashing check engine light and if a fault  still exists, you know what it is from the read out. All OK is indicated by flashing half a second on and half a second off.

You may have to run the car over 11kph for two minutes for the coolant to warm and the CEL to function.

To read historic ECU faults before clearing as outlined in the original post, connect the two black jumpers only and switch on ignition. Long flash=10 and short =1.  Switch off ignition and disconnect the jumpers. A  D-Check can then be run in exactly the same way but with the green jumpers connected only instead of the blacks.

Sometimes finding the black and green jumpers is difficult. Good lighting helps. The greens are easier as they are bigger and the only greens there. There could be several black plugs loose under the dash near the steering column but only one pair go together and activate the CEL. Sometimes the pugs are still taped together and out of the way as this proceedure has not been used on that particular car since new.

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As I know a full reset can only be done from the OBD port under drivers side from a dealer or someone with the correct equipment....

Depending on the fault you can "reset" some for the common issues (fuel etc) by disconnection the negative terminal of your battery and pressing the break for about 10 seconds.

This does not do the full re-set that you need, but may help....

 
What is it you need to re-set??

 

Scott 

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alright andy

 

got a long arm induction on my02 sti type uk k & n one i went offshore came home it was lashing down with rain and some punk pulled out on front off me and i swirved to miss him as i swirved it was straight into a mega deep puddle. the fillter has a water proof sock but i think it was subbmerged because when i drove off there was no power then it just came on but i noteiced the car was only running 10 to 9 psi and somebody sayed it was runnung on safe mode and i have to have it re-set any advice would be much help.

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alrght all really need help now got my ecu re-set the day and did nothing no faults or anything it was done at town and county and the guy said he has no idea so i am really stuck ppppppppllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaasssseeeeeeeeee hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllppppppppppppp tearing my hair out a good friend of mine said it would be the maf sensor but its a big gamble because it £280 plus vat so was just wondering if some local had a bugeye sti so we could put it in before i buy one just to see if that is the problem it only takes like ten mins would be much apprecated  

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