Difference between STi Type R and STi?

[Bluebotle]

Hi,

Does anyone know what the difference is between the 52 Plate Type R STi and my 52 Plate STi?

I am thinking of putting the suspension struts of the Type R model on mine replacing my knocking ones.

Cheers

Lee

[blue boy]

Think its the gear ratios.............not sure tho'

[Little H]

Not really seen a Bugeye Type R but they usually have

3 doors

roof vent

no air con

And quite a bit more but as i say ive never seen a 3 door bug eye so i assume that its not the same as the classic style type R's

The running gear and struts though should be fine as spec c and ra stuff fit standard

Lee have you seen it mate, would like to see it myself.

[paul n]

As above, as far as I know all type R's were Classic Scoobs, have you seen any pics?

[Bluebotle]

Hi,

Not seen the car, I saw the Struts on Ebay for sale.  He said they were off a 52 plate STi Type R.  The guy selling the struts is the director of a performance garage based in Durham.  He said he removed the struts from the STi Type R and replaced them with electronic ones!

How much would you pay for all 4 Struts with springs and top mounts that have covered only 15,000 miles?

I spoke to the guy today and is genuine and very helpful, I guess they are like ProSport but based in Durham.

Can't wait to fir them, does anyone know how easy it is to install the front struts and what the torque settings are for the bolts?

I'm going to leave the rear struts alone as they don't knock yet!!

Cheers

Lee

[ayde]

As above they dont do a newage Type R they must mean a Type RA or spec c. Struts are really easy to fit, about half an hour a side if you are not swapping springs over.

3 (IIRC 12mm) nuts on the top of the strut (top mount) under the bonnet slacken off but dont remove

You will have to un bolt the brake line from the strut under the arch above the hub (think this is either a 10mm or 12mm bolt)

Get some tipex and mark the positions of the bolt heads that secure the strut to the hub (IIRC the top bolt is eccentric - used to alter camber on front wheels)

Once these are out the strut assembly is free (you may have to put some heat into these nuts as they can be pretty tight and a bit corroded)

Undo the 3 top mount nuts you slackened off earlier get back under the wheel arch and remove the strut, normally take's a bit of jiggling and persuasion with a big screw driver.

If you are swapping over the springs it would be best to slacken the top nut on the strut while the weight of the car is still on the strut before doing any of the above. Once the strut is out you can use spring compressors but they are not really necessary, just makes it a bit easier. Remove the top nut and then lift the top mount and spring off the strut - MAKE SURE YOU MAKE A NOTE OF THE POSITIONS OF THE SPRING AND THE TOP MOUNT/HAT ETC AS IF YOU DO NOT PUT THESE BACK ON ON THE CORRECT POSITION THE SPRING WILL RUB ON YOUR INNER WING. Use tipex again to mark things up - makes it a lot easier. 

Put it all back together and try to get the eccentric bolt in a similar position to what it originally was.

Once it has all settled in you would be best to get a full 4 wheel alignment done so if you are getting the rear struts as well you would be best to fit these at the same time to save money in the long run, they may be a different rate to the ones you have to as they are from a JDM car. A 4 wheel alignment is alot cheaper than 4 new tyres and it will improve the handling.

The rears are similar to the fronts apart from the brake line is held in place with a clip (on classics the brake line is captive in the strut and you either had to remove the brake line to remove the shock and mess around doing a full bleed after or what most people do is use a hacksaw and cut the bracket and bend it out of the way to remove the brake line and then do the reverse on refitting. I am sure that newage brake lines are not captive in the rear struts though, so it makes it easier.

To get to the top of the struts you have to remove the rear seat - 10 minute job - 2 bolts in the front of the lower section - then just pull it out. 3 bolts in the base of the rear section in the area of the seat belt anchors then give the back a lift up and remove it.

Its pretty tight to get into the top 3 nuts on the rears - it can be made easier by removing the seat belt inertia's, with the right tools there is no need for this though

Access to the lower strut bolts is a bit tighter on the rear and as far as I know the bolts are not eccentric (not on the classic anyway)

Then just follow the same as for the fronts if you are swapping springs etc...

I have got a link to a full guide with pictures off scoobymods.com somewhere I will try and find it. It is for a classic but there is virtually no difference. 

 

[Bluebotle]

Hi,

Thanks for the info. this is really helpful.  I paid £150 for all 4 struts and each one is a complete unit so no need to strip the springs etc.  In all honesty, the knocking noise on the front is the top mount, the struts I have already are in good working order.  To be sure i'm just going to swap the new (used) struts with the current installed ones.

Do I need to support the hub when I remove the strut or just let it dangle whilst I change the strut over?  I am worried when the hub drops it damages something i.e. puts extra force on the drive shafts etc.

Cheers

Lee 

[ayde]

You can support it if you like but you will have to force it down to get the strut out and it is fairly solid so its not really an issue, you will see when you have it in bits[]

[rasher]

Not really seen a Bugeye Type R but they usually have

3 doors

roof vent

no air con

all bugs were 4 door, never heard of a type R, Spec C yes, would be interested to see one