Project Type R - Phase 2.5

[Dave K]

Started on the heads this weekend;

Purchased a valve spring compressor;

Remove cam cover;

Followed by cam;

I then labelled up 16 bags as you need to keep each set together, most important being the shim with each set.

Buckets and shims removed;

Valve compressed and collets removed, telescopic magnet very useful for this part.

Then retainers, valve and spring removed;

This pic shows a valve stem without valve stem seal and one with;

All removed and you can see how bad the OEM casting is finished;

Hope to remove all these casting lumps when porting the heads;

Edited June 22, 2008 by Dave K

[Cret]

Back to the build.

Acquired these for nowt;

Bah - I just bought the same set a few weeks ago for £30.

All looking like good (and very thorough) progress dude.

I've just bought a pair of reconditioned STi heads (1996 V4 - is that the same as yours?) for the legacy.  They look like they've been painted or acid dipped or something and have had 12 new valves installed.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1

When funds permit I'll be following up with forged pistons & rods, a clutch and light flywheel.  Might be a wee bit yet though.....

[ASTiMAN]

Got your work cut out there Dave! I would really consider putting in 1 piece valves so you can run severe antilag without risking the tops breaking off at the fusion weld. Steve Guirey can get them fairly cheap I think they were about £15 each.

I put Cusco adjustable coilovers on the car - super stiff tarmac rally styliee!! Too hard for back roads, but ideal for smooth surfaces, like Bray Hill & Lhergy Frissell (not sure about the Sloc yet - might have to drop the standard set up on for that stage).

I think I might put a weld in cage in the car later this year, just all adds up.

Let me know if you want any machining done for the build - Dean has everything in his workshop and is a perfectionist.

 

Kind regards

Andrew

 

PS - Jim are you still running around on that slipping clutch??!!

[Cret]

Yes I am Andrew.  The boost is down to 1 bar now and it's beginning to slip slightly at that but I'm still astonished just how long it is surviving!

If you still have those ones of yours I may well be interested.  As I said I've just bought a pair of heads to get rid of tappet noise but I need to get some more dosh together for getting the forged bits for the car.  I'm moving house on Friday and will have a garage so first job will be engine out of the Nissan to get the oil leak fixed then the scoob will be having its motor out for a rebuild, although that might be more around feb/march.  With a bit of luck if my bonus is enough I'll get myself a nice upgrade from my 16g to an 18g or even 20g too..... [][]

 

Yes Dean will do a nice quality job I can vouch for stuff he's done for me & Glyn before.  Might take a while though! [][]

[ASTiMAN]

Jim

Still got the clutches - give me a shout whenever you're ready. Ooohhh another 20g powered scoob possibly??!!

[Cret]

Ace - cheers.

Yes that's the plan once I've got forged bits inside the block.  Not sure whether to get an 18g or 20g yet as they cost the same.  Wondering if the 18g is more suitable for mine as I'll be keeping it as a 2L but I haven't got the money for the forged stuff or turbo for a while anyway so plenty of time to think....

[Dave K]

I've just bought a pair of reconditioned STi heads (1996 V4 - is that the same as yours?) for the legacy.  They look like they've been painted or acid dipped or something and have had 12 new valves installed.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1

When funds permit I'll be following up with forged pistons & rods, a clutch and light flywheel.  Might be a wee bit yet though.....

They look the same but V4 was 97/98, think his year is wrong.  Mine is very late 98, they look painted on the ends because the plug should not be the same colour.

You got a good deal there Jim V3/V4 heads are very much in demand with high power builders, normally go for £400 to £500.

And just a note those pistons/rods on ebay are the wrong ones, the compression height is for phase 2 heads, but I mailed them and you just have to request phase 1 pistons.

[Dave K]

Got your work cut out there Dave! I would really consider putting in 1 piece valves so you can run severe antilag without risking the tops breaking off at the fusion weld. Steve Guirey can get them fairly cheap I think they were about £15 each.

I put Cusco adjustable coilovers on the car - super stiff tarmac rally styliee!! Too hard for back roads, but ideal for smooth surfaces, like Bray Hill & Lhergy Frissell (not sure about the Sloc yet - might have to drop the standard set up on for that stage).

I think I might put a weld in cage in the car later this year, just all adds up.

Let me know if you want any machining done for the build - Dean has everything in his workshop and is a perfectionist.

 

Kind regards

Andrew

 

PS - Jim are you still running around on that slipping clutch??!!

Can only run very mild als due to the restrictive ICSV not flowing enough air, so shouldn’t need them I hope.

Cusco, nice bit of kit, you'll be going Andy F style soon with CF doors and perspex windows. lol

Probably wise with the power you will end up running, what's the aim now 500 or more?

[Dave K]

Ace - cheers.

Yes that's the plan once I've got forged bits inside the block.  Not sure whether to get an 18g or 20g yet as they cost the same.  Wondering if the 18g is more suitable for mine as I'll be keeping it as a 2L but I haven't got the money for the forged stuff or turbo for a while anyway so plenty of time to think....

From the research I did for my build the general consensus was the 18g is more suited to 2.0l.

Only gain on 20g was more power at the top end but at the loss of low/mid end torque unless you have a 2.2,2.33 or 2.5.

[Cret]

They look the same but V4 was 97/98, think his year is wrong.  Mine is very late 98, they look painted on the ends because the plug should not be the same colour.

You got a good deal there Jim V3/V4 heads are very much in demand with high power builders, normally go for £400 to £500.

And just a note those pistons/rods on ebay are the wrong ones, the compression height is for phase 2 heads, but I mailed them and you just have to request phase 1 pistons.

Providing they have been rebuilt ok then they should be just the ticket for no more tappet noise anyway!

Presume you mean the wiseco & eagle pistons/rods on Ebay?  That's what I was planning on getting once I have a bit more dosh as they're uber cheap compared with uk buying.  What year does phase 1 go up to and is there really enough height difference between piston versions to affect the CR by a noticeable amount?

[ASTiMAN]

The new turbo spec (hybrid based on a GT30) will easily do 530bhp with nice spool up - similar spec to Mikee Singh's turbo and his engine was a 2.2 with same cams and almost identical spec, whereas mine is 2.33. Torque will be over the 500 lb/ft mark. All figures have been proven on Mikee's car.

I was hoping to get it all sorted for the 3 hills in April, but not so sure now. PPG straight cut  dog gear kit will be added with new turbo to stop gearbox being destroyed and I'll add an electric oil pump and oil cooler to the box.

Perspex is a bit too extreme at the moment, but you never know where these things lead.............!

Original seats are for sale if you know anyone interested - they are like brand new, having only covered 25,000 miles, no scuffs or wear whatsoever.

Kind regards

Andrew

[Dave K]

Parallel Fuel Mod for eurosti hope it helps.

Disclaimer: This is only a guide. It merely explains what I did on my car and does not necessarily denote the most proper or safe method, I take no responsibility for the use of the information contained herein.

One of the problems associated with the Subaru OEM fuel rail design is the fact that cylinder no. 3 is at the end of the fuel line after passing through 4,2 & 1 in that order.

Found this diagram on the web somewhere;

So a common resolve is to parallel feed the rails.

Remove the inlet manifold from the car and turn it upside down, you will be faced with this labyrinth of pipe work;

Remove the injectors, as you don’t want to damage them.

Then remove the fuel rails and connecting pipe work;

Next you will need a pipe cutter to do the job properly, as you don’t want to restrict the flow with a poorly cut pipe.

It is up to you where you cut the pipes but make sure you leave enough pipe for the tubing to fit on;

And you should be left with this lot;

Ensure you ream the end of the pipes to give a clean cut.

I gave the rails a quick clean up whilst I was at it;

Next refit the rails back into the manifold, then connect up equal lengths of pipe to each rail;

The pipes should reach to a t piece in the centre of the manifold;

Ensure all fuel hose and clips used are suitable for the job and are secure as we don’t want any leaks!

Got all my pipe etc. from here http://www.fuelsystem.co.uk/hose.htm

As the standard fuel pressure regulator is bolted to the end of the o/s fuel rail this can no longer be used in that position.

You can buy adaptors to re use the standard reg in this setup however most people take the opportunity to upgrade the reg to an adjustable type like sx/fuellabs which will come with a connector to replace the oem reg.

Next refit the manifold, check what condition the gaskets are in as you may need new.

Now you need to connect the fuel line back up correctly to the filter and regulator;

Again found this diagram on the web somewhere;

Edited June 22, 2008 by Dave K

[Dave K]

Well finally bit the bullet and made the decision, all the parts to build the engine back up should be here next week.

So need to get the heads sorted, started off cleaning up the valve seat areas as they were covered in oil/carbon;

Then began porting the inlets;

Only 15 more to go!;

Edited June 22, 2008 by Dave K

[graeme_stuart]

What a lovely array of greasy tesco bags Dave. [] Where abouts does the flymo strimmer fit in the engine, bit confused about that part, it doesn't look new and not very bling []

[dooahhdoo]

Dave K quote :-

 

I gave the rails a quick clean up whilst I was at it;

 

PMSL. 

[Cret]

All looking very gucci there Dave. []

My garage is almost ready for getting the nissan in and whipping the motor out, then once that's done the leggy engine is coming out and all being well getting a rebuild with nice forged bits. []

[dooahhdoo]

sweeeeeet dude Make sure you take some pics and keep us updated.

[ASTiMAN]

Dave - do you know what the Momo code/part number was for your boss kit? I'm struggling to find a Momo boss for Subarus fitted with an airbag. Are you ready to buy/part exchange my interior yet?

Kind regards

Andrew

[Dave K]

Sorry for long delay in reply, part No. if you still need it is 12115117306, but it is not for an airbag fitment as they dont do one.

[Dave K]

Continued with the porting;

Inlet ports finished;

Also give the exhaust side a port;

Just need to get the valve seats cut and heads skimmed then can start building them back up and shim etc.

And stick them on this ;

After I have swapped the pistons for these, well the replacements as these are the wrong ones! ;

Edited June 22, 2008 by Dave K

[dooahhdoo]

mmm shiny []

You are going to have to give your heads some serious polishing to match that! Also, the bell housing will need some polishing as well [] Wanna have some Jizer?

 

LOL []
 

[Cret]

Damn that block looks nice, as does the porting etc. []

Got my shiny new lathe & milling machine today dude, and the anodising stuff should be here soon too []

[Dave K]

Shiny it may be, lets just hope it don’t end up in one big oily mess if I get it wrong!

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Very jealous Jim wouldn’t mind that kind of setup myself.

How’s the SX project coming?

[graeme_stuart]

Evening Dave.

looking almost as blingy as the rest of your stuff [H] []

[Dave K]

Whilst waiting for the heads I got carried away with the rocker covers, nothing new there then;

Bit of etch primer;

And a bit of the wrinkly stuff;

Got the heads back after valve seats being cut, cheers to Paul at South Coast Performance, and then a skim by Mr Ross at Motivation;

And then it was onto valve lapping, which I have to say is the most depressing thing to do on an engine build, thank god it ins't a 20 valves like my old motor.

Edited June 22, 2008 by Dave K