A very productive weekend

[the squiggle]

First weekend of decent weather and the Squirrel goes mad

Fitted the new exhaust system matching it up the WRC downpipe

HHHHHMMMMM Titanium, about 6kg

Moved the Lambdalink, Knocklink, Turbo timer and Boost Controller

All in the line of sight

Fabricated a massive cold air feed, rather unique i think. Removed the front driving lamp and placed the feed behind it, drilling lots of holes to let more air in. Drilled a massive hole next to the chassis leg and feed some ducting through it straight onto the filter

More cold air vicar

Twin ducts

Useless when its foggy

Fitted the Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller. Set to 14psi at lo boost and 19 psi high boost

Boost controller

And we did the maps for the run next week

Grant

Still to fit

HKS Coilovers when i pick them up

STI mudflaps in red and white................Cheers Callum

[ANDYJDMSTI]

someone has been a busy little bee!!!!!

see ya the morra and you can help me swear at my boot lid liner

[IanJ]

Grant,

Very nice. I should take delivery of my fog covers this week. So i'll let you know how it goes getting them done in GRP with an intake duct. Looks like it'll do just the job for you

Ian

[paddy247]

Squirrel thats some contraption of air indution, But would you not be better with just a standart air box with a good fillter as this supports up to 380 bhp ish

[the squiggle]

Where is the fun in that

Std airbox draws air passiveley from the cavity in the inner wing and this idea will force the cold air from the front of the car on to the filter from 2 directions

With the separator keeping the warm air from the manifolds getting near the filter

Car is a lot smoother at idle in traffic and there is no det showing when leaving said traffic

Jobs a good 'un

Grant

[Carl Davey]

I love days like that when you just get sh!tloads done.

[paddy247]

more interesting i agree, I have just recently seen and witnesed an induction kit simler to yours being moded to be placed down where the intake duck is on the front bumper, rather than running the pipe work up to the fillter as u you have done, similler effect.

[paddy247]

Is the std air box not force fed anyway?

[the squiggle]

You will notice a bend in the duct pipework, this will stop any water from hitting the filter. A problem of placing the filter directly behing the foglight. Also the air will flow in a natural direction from the duct to the open vent on the bonnet

Gave the car a good spanking then opened the bonnet and the cone filter was stone cold. Benefit i was after and a smooth idle to boot

Grant

[the squiggle]

<< Is the std air box not force fed anyway? >>

Not really on a classic as it breathes through the box in the inner wing. The narrow hole between the std airbox and inner wing cavity is where it has to breathe through.

The new age STI's have a loverly Ram-Air effect

Grant

[wilky]

<< more interesting i agree, I have just recently seen and witnesed an induction kit simler to yours being moded to be placed down where the intake duck is on the front bumper, rather than running the pipe work up to the fillter as u you have done, similler effect. >>

I have been running an induction similar to the one you describe for about 7 months now, with the FMIC at cruise I see 2degrees above ambient air temp, kicking the backside out of things I see about 12- 15 degrees above ambient summer 8- 10 winter. I have no AFR because my ECU works off MAP. The man who fabricated the induction I have does use AFR. He reports similar findings with no affect to his AFR readings.

Just avoid deep puddles

Oh, and the cars a classic

Callum W

[paddy247]

Mine a classic also and im going to be fitting a front mount intercooler, so ill be considering moving my air box and fitting an induction kit down at the original intake point, so u recomend this mod then?

[wilky]

In a classic, yes but you will need to work the AFR into the equation, unless u run a link or similar. Once you start pushing the bubble the bubble with boost, and the induction charge becomes more important you will need as much cold air as you can get, as Im sure you know. The colder it is the more advance you can run, the denser the air is etc etc. As you said earlier, why take the cold air to you, when you can go and get the cold air. Just ensure its still cold when it gets to the turbo. If you cant afford the contraptions you can buy then make your own, test it, if its pish, try again and again until its right!

Callum W

The only limits are your scrape pile and your own imagination.