Engine Management Light

[dougieboy]

Hi all, I went out too the garage this morning and started the car and gave it a little rev and the management light has came on, It did go off after i turned the key on and off a few times and thought that was that but when i drove down the road a bit it came back on, its a wrx with a remap. also when i checked under the bonnet i noticed i must have left the oil cap on top of the battery when i was checking the oil last week.

[tinman1]

Hi all, I went out too the garage this morning and started the car and gave it a little rev and the management light has came on, It did go off after i turned the key on and off a few times and thought that was that but when i drove down the road a bit it came back on, its a wrx with a remap. also when i checked under the bonnet i noticed i must have left the oil cap on top of the battery when i was checking the oil last week.

Best advice I can give is get a new oil cap and have a fault code read done.

Obviously use some savvy. if it sounds like something is wrong, don't drive it !

May just be something strange like low crank case pressure upsetting it an turning on the CEL ???

More will become clear when a fault code read has been done.

If you are in the position to do so, and to aid you in the future, you could buy yourself a fault code reader.

They are not to expensive and are easy enough to use.

I will write another reply in a minute, I am on my Mrs laptop, so I will go to my PC all will become clear !

[tinman1]

OK

So the other way you can do it is you can look in Scoobypedia in the ECU area. http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECU Do a fair amount of reading (knowledge is good A little knowledge is dangerous remember ! )Get yourself the open source software, download it in to your laptop (if you have one ?) purchase a Tatrix cable

http://www.tactrix.com/

And there you have it, fault code reader and live data feed.

If you are suitably knowledgeable of the automotive arts, and computer literate, you can get other software such as ECU Flash and ECU Edit. And they can be nice little toys to play with.

But if you do that you have to fill out modified vehicle reports for your insurance company.

Personally, I use a laptop with all the necessary software, and that's my fault code reader and diagnostic tool. But then I also have more than 20 years as an Automotive engineer (retired from the trade now.), and experience of modding and chipping.

So I would have to say, laptop great tool, but unless you know what you are doing, don't go down the road of using it for anything other than reading codes. (replacement engines are not cheap !)

Hope this helps

Oh, I have attached a file of fault codes, which you can also find in the ECU area in Scoobypedia at the top of the home page of the SIDC website.

Good Luck

Edited January 5, 2013 by tinman1

[dougieboy]

OK

So the other way you can do it is you can look in Scoobypedia in the ECU area. http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECU Do a fair amount of reading (knowledge is good A little knowledge is dangerous remember ! )Get yourself the open source software, download it in to your laptop (if you have one ?) purchase a Tatrix cable

http://www.tactrix.com/

And there you have it, fault code reader and live data feed.

If you are suitably knowledgeable of the automotive arts, and computer literate, you can get other software such as ECU Flash and ECU Edit. And they can be nice little toys to play with.

But if you do that you have to fill out modified vehicle reports for your insurance company.

Personally, I use a laptop with all the necessary software, and that's my fault code reader and diagnostic tool. But then I also have more than 20 years as an Automotive engineer (retired from the trade now.), and experience of modding and chipping.

So I would have to say, laptop great tool, but unless you know what you are doing, don't go down the road of using it for anything other than reading codes. (replacement engines are not cheap !)

Hope this helps

Oh, I have attached a file of fault codes, which you can also find in the ECU area in Scoobypedia at the top of the home page of the SIDC website.

Good Luck

[dougieboy]

Cheers for that i will get on to it asap, just hope its a simple fix. Thanks again

[dougieboy]

I have the fault codes from my code reader and they are p2432 and p1410 secondary air system and secondary air combi valve does anyone have any idea on where to go from here.

[tinman1]

I have the fault codes from my code reader and they are p2432 and p1410 secondary air system and secondary air combi valve does anyone have any idea on where to go from here.

Hi Dougieboy

Sorry for slow reply.

I am not to familiar with your model of REX, but basically it is emission control garbage, the system pumps air in to the exhaust in an effort to lie to the ECU (by making it think it is running lean)so it pumps more fuel in, so the Cats warms up faster.

It is all to do with legislation conformity.

It would appear that there is several fixes to the problem, apparently there is a pump and there are valves in the air injection system that stick, either in the open or closed position. This throws up the CEL (CEL = Check Engine Light just in case you were unaware of meaning.)

Firstly make sure all the plugs to these units are plugged in so that they are receiving their electrical signal. In other words be sure there is no loose connection first. This would also give you the same problem. What the ECU is saying is, there may be an issue with the system; NOT that there IS a problem with the system. If all seems OK then the below may be the solution to the issue. I am not saying for sure that this is your issue, only that this is the typical known issue for the fault codes you have given.

Option 1

Removal and an attempt to free off and clean the pump and these valves so they can once again operate correctly, may solve your issue at least on a temporary basis if it is successful.

Option 2

Spend loads of money on new components, which should solve the issue, and look forward to it happening again because it is a common fault allegedly.

Option 3

Allegedly someone makes a blanking kit, which allows you to remove the air injection system from the car. Then you get someone; say a mapper, (and this is where the laptop with significant software comes in to play) to access the ECU and have the air injection codes disabled so the light will NOT come back on again.

I am unaware of anyone up your way who can enlighten you further with regard to this issue except for a chap called Alistair at trackhound.co.uk He is moving away apparently, but he has a good name in the mapping world and may well be happy to advise you, its worth the price of a call.

Here is a few pics to help you locate etc.

Blanking Plates

Hope this helps

If you get stuck just shout, I will see if I can help further.

[tinman1]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UtENi9qAHg

This should give you an idea of what is involved

[The Don]

A few threads you could read on the subject..........

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/secondary-air-injection-67750/

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/secondary-air-injection-solution-87817/

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/secondary-air-injection-ultimate-solution-94534/

[dougieboy]

Thanks guys looks like i will remove and blank off the offending item and take it back up to the mapper.

[tinman1]

Your welcome

Its nice to be nice !

Let us know how you get on.

Maybe even document it if you do the work yourself

so it can be of aid to others

Let us know where you get the blanks from, I am very interested.

TTFN

[Guest]

I think its probably your bottom end thats about to go. I suggest taking out piston number 4 and wrapping it with wax tape then putting it back into the cylinder. that should fix it. Once youve done it, drive the car flat out everywhere for 6 months. should be fine

[tinman1]

I think its probably your bottom end thats about to go. I suggest taking out piston number 4 and wrapping it with wax tape then putting it back into the cylinder. that should fix it. Once youve done it, drive the car flat out everywhere for 6 months. should be fine

You seem to have missed out the Gaffer tape, the KY jelly, the wetsuit and the shaved hamster.

Oh, Sorry cats out the bag with regards to what you get up to in your spare time, when you are not trawling websites looking for attention from men you have never met before.

Edited January 9, 2013 by tinman1

[dougieboy]

what the chances of bottom end failure on a car under 50,000 miles and i don't hear any strange noises or anything.

[Guest]

You seem to have missed out the Gaffer tape, the KY jelly, the wetsuit and the shaved hamster.

Oh, Sorry cats out the bag with regards to what you get up to in your spare time, when you are not trawling websites looking for attention from men you have never met before.

takes one to know one !!

Dougie i am widing you up. There is every chance if you havent put oil in the car but im sure this isnt the case

[tinman1]

Pay no attention Dougieboy.

You only left the cap off.

It is highly unlikely that you lost enough oil (if any given the length of the filler tracked) to have any concerns.

Unfortunately some people do not have the wisdom to understand that by writing all their S***, they cause concerns for people that maybe do not have enough mechanical knowledge to know what is contained within the skin of a motor vehicle.

After all, it takes years to become a tradesman.

But only seconds to be something other than useful.

Concentrate on the issues you have fault codes for M8, one thing at a time.

Laters

[dougieboy]

cheers mate nearly craped myself when it was suggested.