sti pretender Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 Going to refurb my calipers on the Type R at the weekend want to check if there is a bleeding sequence? A previous thread said pass front, drivers rear, drivers front then pass rear.
badbaz Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 Going to refurb my calipers on the Type R at the weekend want to check if there is a bleeding sequence?A previous thread said pass front, drivers rear, drivers front then pass rear. Do it any way you like Robert. Clamp the flexis so you don't lose so much fluid. If you're only doing front you won't need to bleed the rears.
colin_ross Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 I've always been told to start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylnder and work to the closest but Barry will have more experience.
sti pretender Posted March 10, 2010 Author Posted March 10, 2010 Do it any way you like Robert. Clamp the flexis so you don't lose so much fluid. If you're only doing front you won't need to bleed the rears. Is it ok to clamp braided hoses or is there another option?
badbaz Posted March 10, 2010 Posted March 10, 2010 That's difficult Robert. I would make a blank nut to fit the end of the hose then. You'll lose a little but not all.
sti pretender Posted March 11, 2010 Author Posted March 11, 2010 That's difficult Robert. I would make a blank nut to fit the end of the hose then. You'll lose a little but not all. Thanks Baz, Had thought that might be the case. If I find a good method of blanking I'll post up.
badbaz Posted March 11, 2010 Posted March 11, 2010 It doesn't need to be perfect, you're opening the line anyway and you need to bleed it on completion of the refurb. Best for you, and easiest, is to get a piece of rubber hose and push it over the end of the brake hose when you remove it from the caliper, fold or blank the end of that just to stop all fluid loss. Remember to pump your caliper pistons out to the max before you break the lines so as to ease their removal!
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