The Project Has Begun!

[ciaranrb5]

The liquid coming out of the gauge is called glycorene it is used to stop the needle vibrating to much. You may want to make yourself a rubber seal so it doesn't leak everywhere or take the stopper out and pour it out as id imagine fuel pressure will be pretty steady anyway.

[za - sti]

Jase looking good - bringing back memories of my last 12 months!

on the radiator 3 wire 2 wire question - did you sort that out as i have same problem

cheers alex

[green_goblin]

The liquid coming out of the gauge is called glycorene it is used to stop the needle vibrating to much. You may want to make yourself a rubber seal so it doesn't leak everywhere or take the stopper out and pour it out as id imagine fuel pressure will be pretty steady anyway.

Cheers for the info, i will plug it some way or other, just wasnt sure if it was a bad thing it was leaking....thanks

Jase looking good - bringing back memories of my last 12 months!

on the radiator 3 wire 2 wire question - did you sort that out as i have same problem

cheers alex

Cheers alex with the radiator i tested it all out with a multi meter and powered up the old radiator fan with my battery and there are high and low speed coils......so i just connected the 2 supplies for high and low together and the black wire was the ground.....it means the fan will come on when commanded but always the same speed as the old fan has 2 different coils for the speeds!! there are also 2 plug connections on the loom for each fan, hope this helps

Jase

[fai17]

Moved the fuel pressure regulator in to the middle today, but noticed on the other thread that stevo has three main connections on his fuel pressure regulator!! on my f/p/r i only use 2 connections....whay is this?? I thought it comes from the fuel filter to the two fuel rails then from the fuel rails to the F/P/R and back to tank?? confused, can someone help??

Jase

Fuel filter to T piece to paralell fuel rails

Then from LHS fuel rail to LHS fpr and from RHS fuel rail to RHS fpr.

Then fpr return to tank.

That way you don't need to run the 2 returns from the paralell fuel rails into a T piece before going to the fpr.

It also simplies installation abit if the fpr has the 2 ports instead of just the 1 port.

Does that make sense?

[green_goblin]

Yeh that makes sense.....basically instead of putting a t-piece in before the fpr you just take each side of the rail to the fpr.....cool cool

I take it the pipe lengths coming from the rails to the fpr need to be the same length??

Cheers for the help......thats why im glad im on a site like this as so many people help you out with issues like this

[fai17]

Yeh that makes sense.....basically instead of putting a t-piece in before the fpr you just take each side of the rail to the fpr.....cool cool

I take it the pipe lengths coming from the rails to the fpr need to be the same length??

Cheers for the help......thats why im glad im on a site like this as so many people help you out with issues like this

In a ideal world you want to keep all the lengths of hoses symetrical.

[za - sti]

Cheers Perfect

I was thinking of fitting another aux fan so could connect one to the low speed and one to the high speed which would effectively have the same effect - i think

cheers Alex

[green_goblin]

Cheers Perfect

I was thinking of fitting another aux fan so could connect one to the low speed and one to the high speed which would effectively have the same effect - i think

cheers Alex

I know what you mean but it wouldnt work as the normal fans have two coils and this is what causes the speed difference.....the high and low speed voltages are both 12volts but the connection to a different resistance coil makes the speed different, so your prob best just connecting the high/low wires together to bring the fan on when required! hope that makes sense

[green_goblin]

Does anyone know what size of thread it is in the fuel lab fpr's i need to get a fitting for the one which is blanked off so that i can connect the 6-an fitting to it??

Need to get this fitting pronto as im about ready to start piping up soon!! help!!

[green_goblin]

Well got my engine today looks great!!

Fitted my exhaust,turbo, sensors etc then got the flywheel and clutch fitted ready for mounting in the car

Then when i butted up the engine to the gearbox i found only 4 of the bolts line up........one of them being the started bolt which i couldnt even do anything with as it misses the flange on the engine!!

So phoned up Agra and now stripped the engine back out along with the gearbox to take up to them so they can do what needs to be done to make it all right!!! aaaahhhhhrrrggggg!!

So now the car looks like this

Oh well thats the joys of moddin i suppose!!

[RA Dunk]

Bummer Jase, just when it appeared to be going all well for you too wonder if i will get the same problem with mine then?

On another note mine finally moved today as well

i moved it too the right abit so i could clean my floor

[green_goblin]

Yeh i think you will have the same issue as you now have the CDB, i phoned Alan and he spoke to his mechanics and they said thats common when changing to the CDB!!

LOL dont worry mate im sure your block will be getting moved into a better position soon

I still have plenty to do in the mean time as lots of other goodies have arrived, also spoke to Alan about the S206 turbo and some other things so all looking good

[RA Dunk]

So what have you done with the block then to get this fixed? are Agra going to bore you a new hole or something?

The s206 looks to be a pretty good buy ATM, was half kind of thinking of one of these as well at some point

[green_goblin]

They are going to butt up the engine and gearbox and check all then add flanges were required along with drilling and tapping new holes!! they are engine builders in Dundee and are really good and buy the sounds of it they are going to get it done quite quickly for me...so thats a bonus

Yeh the S206 looks good like.....he says the mid range on it is better than the GT35

[RA Dunk]

They are going to butt up the engine and gearbox and check all then add flanges were required along with drilling and tapping new holes!! they are engine builders in Dundee and are really good and buy the sounds of it they are going to get it done quite quickly for me...so thats a bonus

Yeh the S206 looks good like.....he says the mid range on it is better than the GT35

So you have sent away the box as well then am i picking this up right?

[green_goblin]

Yeh i stripped the engine and gearbox out this afternoon and im taking both up to them in the back of Jcscoobs van tomorrow

[RA Dunk]

Hmm im wondering if i should do this now with the box im going to be fitting as its sitting in the shed, would be pretty easy to throw them both into the back of the car and head down before i even attempt to fit anything? , i take it the clutch/flywheel needs to be fitted so they can see where the holes line up and dont line up before they can do there thing?

[green_goblin]

I would do it if i was u!!

You dont need to fit the flywheel and clutch as there are dowl pins between the engine and gearbox so it will be lined up and then you will see if it matches.....one of the ones that doesnt for me is for the starter so you need to check that one!!

[RA Dunk]

Jase have you got the right starter motor for your box?

[green_goblin]

Yeh its the right one.....its not just the starter....in total i need 4 modified!!

[arch]

Jase i only have the 4 bolts on my block this is not a problem. You will have the two long studs at the bottom, and the bolt at the top drivers side and one long bolt at the starter which will all line up. I do remeber having to tap the gearbox casing for one of the starter bolts but i am sure I had 4 block to gearbox fixings. I had to do this when I changed from a 752 gear case to a 754 box as the two casings are different it wasnt an issue with the 2.0Lt or 2.5Lt block. I assume you have changed to a 6 speed or 754 box?

[green_goblin]

No its still a 5 speed box that have, the only thing is looking through were the other starter bolt goes it misses the flange so could just be tapped, thats why i put it into Agra, Its a strange one like!!

I have a question for you Arch, i am just away to do all the fuel lines and i am putting a t-piece on either side of the fuel rails so that there are only 2 connections to my FPR.....so from the fuel line to the filter.....filter to the t-piece which then feeds the rails....then teed up again.....then to the FPR (right hand side of the FPR keeping the piping away from the turbo).....then from the bottom of the FPR back to tank!! but when looking in the corner under the bonnet it looks like there are three fuel lines!! what is the other line for??

Cheers

Jase

Edited September 25, 2009 by green_goblin

[colin_ross]

I had a similar issue when I moved from a phase II to a phase I block on my 99. The 754 gearbox could only take 4 bolts in the bellhousing and just the same as arch required the block to be tapped to accept the phase II starter motor bolt.

It's been like that for 3 years and hasn't caused me any problems.

[arch]

No its still a 5 speed box that have, the only thing is looking through were the other starter bolt goes it misses the flange so could just be tapped, thats why i put it into Agra, Its a strange one like!!

I have a question for you Arch, i am just away to do all the fuel lines and i am putting a t-piece on either side of the fuel rails so that there are only 2 connections to my FPR.....so from the fuel line to the filter.....filter to the t-piece which then feeds the rails....then teed up again.....then to the FPR (right hand side of the FPR keeping the piping away from the turbo).....then from the bottom of the FPR back to tank!! but when looking in the corner under the bonnet it looks like there are three fuel lines!! what is the other line for??

Cheers

Jase

The third smaller diameter hard pipe is for a fuel tank breather emissions thing pretty sure even with the standard tank its not required but I ahve removed my tank so mine is def not required.

As peter pointed out you can use two feeds to the FPR but it uses more fuel hose and more weight for no benefit in my opinion.

cheers

Archie

[green_goblin]

Cheers for the info guys, oh well its in getting done now so guess i will just have to let them carry on

Arch

Im just going to pipe it up with one return from the rails like you, i dont have an adaptor for the other side of my FPR as its blanked and i dont know the size, so to save any messing i will go that way......but as you say it doesnt matter so thats cool

Got the intercooler pipe back that i was waiting for from being powder coated so got that in and also fitted the air filter down at the side of the bumper, also got my front bumper back today from being fixed up and re-sprayed........and all i can say is wow what a job they done!!! will get some pics up tomorrow