colin_ross Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 wont it be getting X ammount of miles to be run in first? If x mean 0 then probably yes. Didn't you run your last one in on the trailer John?
JohnSt Posted April 6, 2009 Author Posted April 6, 2009 If x mean 0 then probably yes. Didn't you run your last one in on the trailer John? No Colin it was run in on the drive, I turned it off once it was on the trailer Dates www.timeattack.co.uk Grant, turbo is on loan from www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk ---john---
RA Dunk Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 so whats the reason behind "not" running it in then, only asking as im going to be in a similar situation soon
fai17 Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 so whats the reason behind "not" running it in then, only asking as im going to be in a similar situation soon you getting a new engine then?
RA Dunk Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 you getting a new engine then? yup, although not as "Gucci" as yours and Johns
colin_ross Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 so whats the reason behind "not" running it in then, only asking as im going to be in a similar situation soon Quite simple. He doesn't give a fu ck.
JohnSt Posted April 6, 2009 Author Posted April 6, 2009 Not quite, I only got the car finnished at 2:30 am of first Race Day
RA Dunk Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 so whats the excuse this time then, T/A dosent start for another three weeks
JohnSt Posted April 6, 2009 Author Posted April 6, 2009 so whats the excuse this time then, T/A dosent start for another three weeks we don't talk about or mention that !!
fai17 Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 yup, although not as "Gucci" as yours and Johns Is it of a stroked variety Dunc?
RA Dunk Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 Is it of a stroked variety Dunc? yup, 2.1 stroker in a CDB
RA Dunk Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 So...........back to this running in process what is the best way to go about it, how many miles, what revs, is a running in map needed?
colin_ross Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 So...........back to this running in process what is the best way to go about it, how many miles, what revs, is a running in map needed? This is the ffedback I got from my engine builder when I asked the same question > Here is what I suggest for breakin, but of course always follow what >your tuner says to do. THis is just what works best for me. > > First 300 miles, no boost no more than 4500rpms. Use non-synthetic oils >of 10-30 weight. I use the cheapest oil I can find for the first round. > Granny drive the car, and don't get on the highway and go for 300miles. >That is not the right way to do it. The fueling needs to be pretty spot on, >if not a little lean for this otherwise the rings will take forever to >seat. > AFter 300 miles, change oil/filter and put in non-synthetic again but >use a decent brand. Now you don't want to run any more than 12-13psi boost >and set your limiter to 6000rpms. Drive like this for 1200-1500miles. >This is also where you will be working on your part throttle fueling. You >should be able to get it dialed in within this mileage timeframe. > If all is well after 1500 miles, change oil/filter again. Still no >synthetics. Have the car dyno tuned and then immeadiately after, change >the oil to full synthetic. Now your done. Every 5000 miles or so I usually >do 3rd gear pulls from 1500rpms to redline and then leave it in gear and >let the engine do the braking. I do this about 10-15 times. This just >helps keep the rings fully seated and usually will also help keep the >cylinders fairly clean of any buildup you might encounter
RA Dunk Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 OMG its going to take fecking months to run it in like that!!
colin_ross Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 Ok I should have read that first and not just copied/paste it. I followed the routine but changed the miles 300 before the first change another 300 before the second last one at 1000. Buy a magnetic sump plug as well if you don't have one. I can post up pics to show you what mine pulled out of a fresh engine.
RA Dunk Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) so in effect 300 before the first change (on the cheapest oil available, under 4K) on daily town driving, no motorways another 300 before the second (slightly better oil still non-synthetic no more than 12-13PSI, under 6K) last one at 1000. (Remap and yehaaaaaa) did you get a map to run it in on Col? is this necessary? Edited April 7, 2009 by RA Dunk
colin_ross Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 I've heard of people getting a running in or "guesstimap" before but I never bothered. I only changed a few things between stages so didn't see the point.....bigger engine,bigger turbo,new fuel system etc Have you got an afr or knocklink? If so watch what they're tellign you. As long as the fuelling is ok and there's no det you should be fine but an e-mail to your mapper should confirm this.
RA Dunk Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 I've heard of people getting a running in or "guesstimap" before but I never bothered. I only changed a few things between stages so didn't see the point.....bigger engine,bigger turbo,new fuel system etcHave you got an afr or knocklink? If so watch what they're tellign you. As long as the fuelling is ok and there's no det you should be fine but an e-mail to your mapper should confirm this. think the Simtec comes built in with knock detection, but will double check with andy cheers
JohnSt Posted April 7, 2009 Author Posted April 7, 2009 think the Simtec comes built in with knock detection, but will double check with andycheers Who is building the engine ? Ask them how to run it in, their tolerances and the way they've Honed it will pretty much determine the runing in procedure
fai17 Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 Running in procedure is still a quess to me. I'm going to speak with my builder soon.....but 500 miles comes to mine. Use Millers run in oil 500 miles Keep below 1 bar and 5k with varied driving but don't hold it on boost for any lenght of time. Then new filter and Millers CF 10/60 and a map from the Forrest variety
jac Posted April 7, 2009 Posted April 7, 2009 think the Simtec comes built in with knock detection, but will double check with andycheers Yes, Simtec has knock detection but it cant reterd to a safer level when it detects it. As for the run in most tuners give it 2 miles before seeing 1 bar of boost and 5000 rpm (for very short periods) and then a further 200miles before hiting it with 2+ bar of boost for short periods Have a read at this. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Jac
jimser Posted April 8, 2009 Posted April 8, 2009 looking good john,hope you get everything sorted out in time mate. good luck for the season ahead im sure you'll surprise a few along the way
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