harvey_smith

All the MBC does is require a greater pressure before the waste gate actuator opens to release boost pressure. Locate it in the boost feed pipe to the WG Actuator.

Why not compare it with the Hybrid GT £270 and the Hybrid GT 2 £290.

The Hybrid HDi kit consists of four hard pipes. The one on the battery/washer bottle side is a continuous polished aluminium pipe all the way from the throttlebody to the plastic timing chest cover. Both kits are very similar and according to Hybrid, the Autobahn is a copy. If you examine the cores you will see differences in the internal core design.

Here are some photographs of OE headers ported and wrapped with DEI 2" exhaust wrap and wire tied.

There are two main types of heatwrap, the white woven fibre glass material that is applied dry and another product, usually light brown in colour applied damp but NOT wet. I use a lot of heatwrap and have tried all types I have come across but settled on DEI. Applied damp and left to dry out overnight close to a boiler. Another advantage with DEI is that it has a marker down each edge about 5 or 6 mm in so that it is easy to judge the correct overlap. Unlike some wrap, it is close woven and does not opwn up when pulled tight. The wrap must be kept tight for a satisfactory result and longveity. Do not double wrap or you may cause problems with the material you are wrapping as too much heat is retained. For a 3" Classic downpipe you will use around 3/4 of a roll of 2" wide X 50' DEI. I used to spray the wrap with an aerosol, also from DEI but stopped doing this when I found it caused the wrap to go brittle at an earlier stage and then flake offcausing premature failure. Tie wire, stainless, 302 grade, around 32 thou" or .81mm is best for me and far more economical than clips. A good tie tool is expensive so unless you are doing lots of wrapping not a cheap solution but it does make the tie process far quicker and consistent. The reasons for wrapping are to reduce under bonnet temperatures and retaining heat in the exhaust gas improves flow. This results in quicker response and earlier spool. On a downpipe on its own, that may not be noticable but if you wrap D/P, up-pipe, headers and turbo exhaust housing (NOT compressor turbine) you will notice a quantifiable benefit.

Because the tube and fin is lighter ie less aluminium mass it does not have the same heat sink properties. However if the core is sufficiently large to control the charge temperature adequately it has a number of advantages. 1)Less pressure drop. Abig advantage. 2) Less weight. If you compare FMIC cores currently on the market you will find that the bar and plate and tube and fin are usually similar dimensions but the tube anf fin are noticably lighter. Having experienced both bar and plate and tube and fin on the same car I have absolutely no doubt that an efficient tube and fin is the way to go. It also happens to be the core chosen by Paul Blamire for his Zen car with proven results. I suspect the article above from MRT is quite old and does not take account of recent developments and the pressure drop inherent on a tube and fin set up.

P.S. Also look for a hair line crack from around the over tightened filling or drain bung.

There is a gasket from your dealer.

Just had this drawn to my attention again. Porting the O/E up-pipe must help but the up-pipe is a constriction and is best replaced with a purpose designed up-pipe to suit the ported headers. If properly heat wraped with good performance material there is no point in trying to refit the heat shields. Indeed it is good practice to remove the lugs and brackets that attach the shields. There is more to it than just openning the ports out or bevelling them and to do the job properly, using carbide burrs for roughing out, removing lugs and brackets with air tools, caustic hot wash to remove particles, wrap and wire, hydraulic ramp and air or battery driver tools for re assembly/installation is a long, hard, full days work. Without air tools and hydraulic ramp it will take up a good part of the second day.

Some are easier to do than others. A typical time with ramps and proper tools is under 2.5 hrs. Some may be less than 2 hrs while others can be 3 hrs. Fixed price here is £70 to swap O/E for ported. The up-pipe with CAT or heatshield can be a problem on some cars. Easy solution is to undo the two engine mounting nuts, put a bit of wood under the sump and jack the engine an inch or so and the up-pipe drops out. Spraying the fasteners with WD40 or similar, the night before and again before the job starts is worthwhile and will make the job easier.

Having tried many brands of exhaust wrap, I have settled on DEI which I buy in frequent batches of ten rolls, 50' X 2". It is not the cheapest but is economical to use. It has a stitching down the side which makes judging the overlap easy and consistent. It is applied damp, not wet. I stopped spraying the wrap because I found it made the wrap brittle after a lot of heat recycling and was then prone to flaking.

Last set I got came from API if that is any help.

I did a test on four pannel filters, HKS Green foam, O/E, K+N, and STi. The difference between best in terms of power, (HKS) and worst, STi was only 2 bhp. The results were not what was expected so they were repeated the following day with exactly the same outcome. The O/E and STi are disposable. In subsequent tests I found the filtration from the HKS was not very good and it would allow through quite big particles compared to the other three. I have now settled on K+N oiled pannel as it is reusable with good filtration. This talk about K+N oiled doing in MAF Sensors is just another piece of disinformation floating about the Scooby community. Follow the instructions for cleaning and oiling and everything will be OK. The filter comes preoiled and ready to use so you do not need to think about cleaning it for 10-15 K miles anyway. I have a complete, new CAK with silicon joiner, clamps and K+N filter for New Age if anybody is looking for a CAK.

The car in question has had everything done to it, everything that you would reasonably expect for that sort of power output. The owner has spent thousands and having been promised 450/480 and having 427/436 he is understandably miffed. Hence my question. A couple of people have spoken highly of Owen's to me and I am looking at one of their turbos now.

Cheers Peter.[] Now you know I would only give you the best.[H] 300 mls per bottle. Effective at 1ml per litre. I have found that the effectiveness tails off after 2ml/litre and there are no gains to be had beyond 3mls/litre. It helps to get a plastic 50 or 60 ml measure from the chemists, local hospital or whatever.