Scott.T

thanks mate, hopefully we will get a few tuen up. It's a great day and nice a relaxing with a bit of petrolhead chatter....

Any interest from SIDC. This is a nice relaxed event and great for the family. entrance to the venue is £5 single occupency or £10 multi. Normally £8 per adult of £26 for family http://www.bentley.org.uk/#/motor-museum/4525135745

Hi Guy's, I know a few of you have attended in previous years and the time has come to start gathering attendee's for this years event. Believe it or not this will be our 6th year !!!!!! The event will once again be held at Bentley Wildfowl & Motor Museum in East Susex on Sunday 4th September intro - Bentley Wildfowl & Motor Museum The Day has switched to a Sunday, as many people work on a Saturday so cannot attend (oh! and the venue have a pre-booked wedding on the Saturday). I hope some/many of you can attend this year and over time more details will be posted. For the moment the following link is to last years website, but this is due to be updated soon Japbash.com If you want a dedicated parking area please maintain a list of attendee's and I will pop back from timeto time to keep an eye on numbers. Thanks for your support in the past and we hope to see you again in 2011. If you want to ask any questions direct, please email me at : scott.555@tiscali.co.uk Attendee's : 1. 2. 3. 4.

I am not 100% sure how big the hole is in the Pre96 restrictor as never measured one. the rumour is that they are 2.0mm, as posted by bob Rawle of BRD. He could be right as they are a fair bit bigger then the 1.2mm restrictor fitted in the later car. Although the hole size is critical I don't think it is 'as' crictical as the later cars with the smaller different located item. On the later cars I have seen 0.1mm make 0.2bar difference. If you are able to make some, I would be interested in a range of sizes for the later cars and a few spares for the Pre96. The overall dimension would be different between Pre and post 96 as they sit in a different bore pipe. the Post 96 restrictor needs to be the following size : 4.8mm Dia 1.2mm hole (standard for most but not all OE applications, VF Turbos uses smaller) 6.5mm in length

Yes the pipe should be connected to the resonator. it normally gets snapped when the resonator is removed due to providing better access for plugs and/or filter change. However, it is not important to re-connect the pipe as long as where it should connect is blanked to stop a small amount of un-metered air being drawn in. It is fine to vent the pipe to atmosphere 'BUT' is should still have the brass restrictor inside, which is normally just passed the elbow in the pipe. the pipe is normally quite hard, so you cannot squeeze it to check for the restrictor. Best to shine a torch down it from the solenoid end.

Having supplied probably 500-600 ECU upgrades for 1993-1996 I often hear of mis-fire and/or overboost issues. 99.9999999999% of the time this is due to the additional boost blowing out the weak spark of a faulty coilpack, Or the bottom hose has been removed from the boost control solenoid, the hoses replaced with samco's and hence restrictor'less OR the boost control plumbing is just 'WRONG'. Never had to change a restrictor on 1993-1996, only source one or an alternative where previous (normally the Japanese) have removed the restrictor, pulled the pipe of or replaced with Samco's 97/98 were a little prone to having to have the restrictor changed after decat/induction to prevent boost spikes. 1993-1996 are normally OK with induction kits. They only normally having issues where the owner/fitter of the induction kit can't find anywhere to connect the 3rd port and hence throws the hose way. It may just about cope like this, but once decatted it will overboost without the restrictor. 99> seem alot more tolerant, probably due to the ECU's improved boost control capabilities. I have only seen code 45 about 2 or 3 times on 1993-1996. Maybe the 97/98 was more prone. But not messed with 97/98 OE ECU as there is no remap solution other then replace the ECU. Not seen it on 99 or 2001> at all. But thats when it went OBDII so codes changed then anyway. With regard to introducing.. I have been around since 2000...just not on this site much as am more into the technical area's of forums which this site has had little of for a number of years. Just popped on lunchtime for a nose. Oh! and from what I can make out the site keeps re-vamping and loosing profile stats.

OK fair play read it as boost creep and dived in...... Although you pride yourself on your knowledge then surley just by looking at the OP avitar you would see the car is Pre96 so would have a 3-port boost solenoid as standard. With regards to the restrictor, the only reason to change would during mapping. OE restrictors should not be changed, if they require change then they are fixing/masking a fault elsewhere. The Pre96 do not need to mess with the restrictor even with mapping. The only time this should be played with on pre96 is when it is missing and an alternative has to be sourced. Post 96 genrally need restrictors altering but only when mapping. the standard restrictor does not allow boost much beyond 1.1bar 97-99, or 1bar on 2001> regardless of WGDC. Hence reducing this down to 1mm from 1.2 helps to regain full ECU control of boost.. But as you would know the restrictor on 97> is in a different place and has an inverse function to that of Pre96. Overboost does not store as a fault code on Pre96 99% of the time. One the odd 1% it may flag Code 45 Map Sensor Fault. FYI, the website links I gave were to my own site and I have been chipping & mapping Impreza since 2001...ever heard of 'ScoobyECU' ??

Sounds like either coil pack failure or fuel cut/overboost. Coil pack failure will just be jerky i.e on boost it will feel like a heavy mis-fire. If when ticking over when cold you hear a slight 'crack' from one of the cylinders it is likley to be the coil pack arcing out to the head. To check the condition of the coil packs, the easiest one to get out is no.1 which is drivers side front. Un-do the bolt on the head and remove the coil pack from the plug. remove the rubber boost from the end of the coil pack and check for cracks. Any signs of hairline cracks or breakage and they are faulty and will be causing issues. see www.polarperformance.co.uk/coilpack.html fuel-cut / overboost is alot more violent and almost kicks in the seat belt tensioner. this as mentioned in the above replies could be due to your boost control solenoid, lack of restrictor or too aggresive map if it is chipped. clean out all of the boost control solenoid hoses, and make sure the bottom hose it attached and has the 2mm brass restrictor inside, see www.polarperformance.co.uk/boostsolenoid.html this shows the pipes and where they go. I doubt on your spec it is wastgate creep, this only comes about if headers, FMIC, induction hose and airfilter is replaced. And in many cases doesn't even cause a problem...depends on the kit bolted on TBH.

its in safe mode, so need to read out any stored error codes see the FAQ of www.polarperformance.co.uk

I know the 2003 JDM Spec STi 8 is a whole much better due to twin scroll, better block, pistons etc..etc... But when viewing one, what should be looked for to ensure it's a genuine JDM and not just a Flashy UK/Euro Spec model. Is the Twin scroll easy to spot/get the numbers off ? I think the Dash should do a Defi style sweep ? Anything else that shouts JDM ?? Anything to consider when upgrading a JDM that's gonna cost 10x what a UK would ? Cheers.....

Just realised I hadn't had a mag for a while and checked membership card to find it expired in April. Don't recall getting a reminder and now can't find how to renew/join from the website. Last year it was in the shop IIRC.......

would be interested in the interior if it's any good. email me (with pics if possible) scott.t@polarperformance.co.uk I am in eest sussex, I assume you are in kent so could collect.

Don't bother with anything other then NGK's IMHO. Other types get alot of hype about nothing. Some have even disintigrated and taken pistons with em'. Go for NGK PFR6B's gapped to 0.7mm or if you are running more then 1.1bar boost NGK PFR7B's gapped to 0.65mm If your taking the plugs out, check the coil packs while your there......

Sounds like a common coil pack problem. The cars are getting quite old now and the coil packs are breaking down due to the constant hold/cold thermal cycle they get each time the car is run. The easiest thing to do it remove the coil pack from N0.1 (front drivers side). Remove the rubber boot and check for hairline cracks, an extreme case can be seen on my website : http://www.polarperformance.co.uk/Coilpack.html new ones can be obtained from www.jpsmotorsport.co.uk for £200

The old RS2000 at the start belongs to a guy from leicester, reg number RUD1T (he was an auditor) and at the time it was the best concourse car in the country. they shipped it out to the states and covered it in dust for the shoot (or so I heard)