crispyduck

... try getting a bottle of water with engine warm and ticking over. Drip water down individual leads one at a time. If on one lead or more car seems to miss then bobs your uncle you've found a problem coilpack/lead

Sounds like an interesting DIY diagnostics procedure you've described here - not come across this one before. I suppose the water is used to try and encourage a short circuit amplifying the problem? Has anyone else used this procedure?

It could well be something else mate but this is a very common issue so its worth a go... [snip]

Iain, all,

I've created a very quick article on Scoobypedia blatantly plagiarising the procedure you describe above ;-)

See: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Kno...ControlSolenoid

--Steve.

cool well when i get the pump either tomorrow or sat ill make sure to take pics and write down the process along the way. thats something else to add to scoobypedia

'dontay4000', did you manage to take any pics and jot down a few notes of your pump install. I'd love to get your work published as an article on Scoobypedia. Feel free to have a go at creating an article yourself or you can send me (stevecrisp AT scoobypedia DOT co DOT uk) anything you have and I'll draft it for you for you to then review/amend as required.

--Steve.

Kim and all,

The SIDC web site looks great. Nice clean and clear design. Well done to all, as I know how much effort this stuff takes!

--Steve.

Good discussion topic. I'm hoping someone will be along with first-hand knowledge in this field - a 4x4 gear/diff expert.

I was advised by a Subie garage a long time ago that they recommend you keep within 4mm of tyre wear difference between each axle. This seemed sensible advice at the time as you'll never keep the tyres the same tread depth all round so I've never thought to question it. As we all know the fronts wear quicker than the rears so when they get around 4mm ish difference to the rears I swap the tyres around. For me this is usually once for the lifetime of the tyres, then they all get replaced at the same time - saves money as I can get more discount on 4 tyres than 2 :-)

Dear SIDC members,

With the 4th anniversary of Scoobypedia this month, two of which in partnership with the SIDC, we thought it would be a good idea to make a fuss of it in a feature article in our club magazine - TrueGrip. Scoobypedia's knowledge articles are referred to, every day, of every year and viewed millions of times around the world, bringing more visitors to our SIDC.

To help us orientate a potential article and find out what's been important to our members, please feel free to vote for one or more of the above Scoobypedia articles that you've found useful or inspirational over the years.

We've selected a number of articles and split them into four basic categories. Each item in the above poll is a 'clicky' to the underlying Scoobypedia article for those that need a refresher. This is a LARGE poll and to participate you'll need to vote for at least one item in each of the four categories. You may vote for more than article in each category, or select the 'no vote' item for those that have no interest in the category.

Thanks in advance for having your say in our club's knowledge base, let's see what bubbles up to the top :-)

Please feel free to use this thread to add your story relevant to the articles and/or suggestions for new articles.

--Steve.

... how quickly will tank last if driven on B roads not pushing it too much?

The spec sheet for the 330S states Combined = 23.7 MPG, Extra Urban = 28.6 MPG, Urban 18.4 MPG. Assuming you don't run your tank dry (not advisable) you'll get between 260 - 300 miles to a tank. You'll be using around 23p of fuel every mile - and what a great way to spend your money IMHO ;-)

... will de-catting make this further pronounced. Do [you] find that the prodrive backbox is a tad too loud, is it generally the case that de-cat = more power = louder exhaust noise?

Yes, and yes. It is quite loud especially on full throttle with the windows down ;-)

My first impression / concern was its like a belt screeching

Sounds like it's your power steering belt. Check belt tension - with engine off ;-)

Is this also the case for newage vehicles?

Yes it is.

I'm thinking of retaining the prodrive back box, and removing the centre cat, but keeping the one closest to turbo. Again are there any real gains to be had, or does it have to be turbo straight through. Although, \i don't want the hastle come MOT time.

Also, with exhaust note change, or is this purely down to the back box?

Yep a few gains at the top end and much more noticeable Scooby 'burble'. See my experiences on this page: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Pro...ifications#toc2

With only the center decat you'll likely be ok come MOT time, especially if you get it nice and hot before testing. Don't forget you have three CATs in your Newage - one in the uppipe also - see diagram below:

Which do you think would be more beneficial to remove for highest power gain.

Downpipe will be more beneficial. Expect between 15-20 bhp. Unlikely to pass an MOT though, but this trick is reported to help:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Kno...atMotFailureFix

I strongly recommend you log your ECU for diagnostics purposes before and after the downpipe mod to ensure you are not running too lean.

Need some help just research to be honest before I commit to buying anything.

Welcome to SIDC Paul. To complement the above responses to your Q's we've a basic Impreza buyers guide on Scoobypedia (link below):

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Buy...rezaBuyingGuide

There also our SIDC FAQ might help, especially the model history page.

... looking for some tuning tips exhaust system is on the cards and possibly induction filter.

... whats a safe reliable power increase i could go for any one any pointers

If you're after cost effective newage mods to slightly over PPP performance and like DIY, see the article on scoobypedia.

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Pro...epModifications

As for safe power I'd keep it around PPP performance (260 - 280 bhp) levels if you're going to continue to put high mileage. I have a newage I bought from new, now with 100K running around that bhp without a hick-up.

... I'll search for an impreza buying guide.

FYI - I've added a short Impreza buying guide to Scoobypedia so that we can use as the basis for something more comprehensive. See link below:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Buy...rezaBuyingGuide

A worthy addition to Scoobypedia if this does work me thinks!!!

Graeme,

Good idea. Here it is :-)

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Pro...ewageRearStruts

I've included two solutions from the various forum suggestions.

--Steve.

... the compatibility list of ECU for the before 1999 cars ? Scoobypedia got only table from 1999. Main question is - is any other ECU comp. with 8S ? What about 75 ?

bastek333,

Let me know if you find out what's compatible and we'll get Scoobypedia updated with your information.

--Steve.

Hi, i'm having a bit of a nightmare trying to find a fasia kit to replace my standard double din with a new cd player and need the blanking plate for it does anyone know where i can get one?

Thanks...

I got mine when back in 2003 from the subaru main dealer. There are two versions; standard and delux! The better one has a spring loaded cover that flips up when you press it. You can see a pick of it here:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Profiles/Smc

Think it was aroung £20.

-steve.

Thanks for that guys, i'm looking at a couple of WRX 03/04 not the bug eye's cars though. There is one STI i'm looking at thats an 03 and has the same lights - i do believe it's the ones that replaced the Bug eyes.

Davey L, some high level information on Subaru model history is on this page within our FAQ:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/SidcFaq/SidcFaq

There are some useful other bits of information in the FAQ as well although it is a little out of date at the moment.

-Steve.

I've always used Triton Motors at Hurn airport in Bournemouth. I've been back there many times with my MY03 WRX so that's good enough recommendation.

http://www.tritonmotorsport.com/showpage.php?id=index_cont

-Steve.

scoobnoob,

Information on the following web site might be useful. Note the 'lag' varies depending on voltage. I see the 550 and 440 injectors are the same timings, perhaps this also applies to the classic injectors?

http://injector-rehab.com/kbse/lag.htm

I'm sure you know what your doing, so you'll be remapping also if you're switching injectors right?

-Steve.

Michael,

Thought your glowing badge was very festive so I've published it on Scoobypedia's project page for others to enjoy:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Pro...lluminatedBadge

Thanks for taking the time to post it.

-Steve.

Agree with above - no ECU reset need.

Lol. Was the butt-u-meter calibrated before the test was carried out?

Yeh, very unscientific I know. I've got all the logging equipment so could perform some in gear acceleration tests if I ever try it again - yes I've used my £50 already. It was comical though just trying to fill up. First find the pump - the 'special' one on its own. Then, the pump didn't work at first so after reading instructions I spotted a keypad to enter an authorisation code you get from the kiosk! Enter code, pull pump full throttle then wait, wait, wait, wait ... (for 2 minutes) then off it goes. Kiosk said it was last used two days ago so takes a while. It was worth it for the crack ;-)

Back to rowley177's question.... perhaps others have some more scientific results or recommendations on fuel enhancements?

Does anyone use fuel inhancment's? just wondering what people use and if they use it what type?

I assume you mean Octane additives? Are you asking to increase the performance or because you car requires higher octane fuel i.e. Jap import?

I had a laugh last Friday with my DIY remapped MY03 WRX. I found a local-ish BP selling 102 RON fuel (Super Plus being 97 RON) so couldn't resist putting some in for a giggle. At £2.48 per litre it was only going to be a little giggle, so after £50 going in a few seconds, I set off for my unscientific test.

Before filling up with 102 RON I reset my ECU and had a few blasts in a few gears to use what was left of my Optimax as a baseline butt-o-meter and remind myself why we drive Scoobies. Then on the same day threw in around 20 litres of 102 RON in and reset the ECU again. I estimate around 5 litres of Optimax left in my tank so 1/5th 'watering' down the 102 RON a little.

Same unscientific tests in same gears as above and my butt-o-meter felt a very slight increase in mid range RPMs between 3K-4.5K RPMs. IMHO in conclusion, any slight increase in performance is not cost effective for the premium paid for 102 RON BP petrol.

I'm no expert on fuel additives but I understand you'll need to put in a lot of bottles to increase the RON to 102 like in my example above so even less cost effective. Obviously a standard car might respond better given the same test above.

-Steve.

I think your current options are (in no particular order)

* Get yourself a blog and post things on that. Not ideal if you run more than one project as it will get difficult to follow

* Create a thread for each of your projects

* The Admin's could consider a new 'Project' forum (although less forums is usually better)

* Post a write-up of your project on Scoobypedia.co.uk

I think posting on a thread on SIDC is a good a place to start a project and work with this community if advice is needed. I've published a few write-ups of projects on Scoobypedia.co.uk however I find this is best after the project is complete and all lessons have been learned.

-Steve.