philcalder

I need to fit a new clutch to my 2006 hawk ete STI, running somewhere between 320-350BHP. Do i need a performance clutch, or will the standard one do the job? I'm already spending a fortune on head gasket repair, so i want to keep the overall cost to a minimum. If the standard clutches will burn out in 6 months, then there's no point. Having said that, i dont track the car, and am fairly sensible behind the wheel......most of the time ;-) Any advice appreciated!

any one got a good site to source cosworth head gaskets and arp studs from? i also want to find out the difference in cost between these and OEM parts

yeh i've had a few recommendations to us those guys. I'm based in the north west. The garage which sold me the car have sourced a local subaru specialist so fingers crossed they do a decent job of it!!

Right - its now confirmed that the head gasket has blown. The garage i bought it from have taken it back from me and are sending it out to a subaru specialist to be repaired. Q's: 1. as the car is running increased boost over standard OEM engine map - is it essential to use cylinder head studs such as ARP's? I've heard the standard studs can stretch due to increased boost pressure and cause leak between the gasket and head. 2. as the engine coolant is now contaminated due to the head gasket leak, does it need to be replaced? Are there any other things i should ask the repair guys to be be checking for? I.e what other things go wrong as a result of a blown head gasket..........

Thanks for that reply its really helpful. The car has been re-mapped by the previous owner, and quite a heavy re-map/re-tube with new new exhaust also. Where i am confused is that i took it to get block tested last nite and it indicated a head gasket failure i.e theres exhaust gases entering the system. Is that exhaust gases that have escaped when pushing the car hard previously, or will the test only show gas escaping during the process i.e the head gasket has failed? am due to take the car baxck to the garage where i bought it this afternoon so i need to know what i'm going to tell them. at the moment, i'm completely confused!!!

After posting y'day about high coolant temps i had the car block tested and the head gasket has failed!!! I've only had it 2 days but the garage has promised me they will sort it out. Can anyone recommend a good place to have the work carried out? I dont want it giong to any old joe bloggs to cobble together a sh*t job. Also if they are giong to repair it (as opposed to getting my money back), i'm going to ask them to cover it for 12 months/12,000 miles. Any pointers about what other components could be damaged, i.e cracked head, radiator etc or other ideas/suggestions regarding the repair would be appreciated. Cheers, Phil!

car is currently being nursed until it goes back tomorrow :-(

It is a 2.5. How can i tell if its head gasket - compression test? What i was thinking is that if it was head gaskets, surely there would be issues at normal around town speeds? Is there any head gasket type failures which would only come to light when driving it hard?

Any of these i can recite to scare them into making sure its definately fixed!!?

I've not tried the fitment of the coolant cap, i'll certainly give it a try. With regards to whether the rad is working, i'm assuming its a yes. The reason i think its working is the car remains at normal temperature even when its stationary in traffic and i dont seem to be losing any coolant at present. The car is going back to the garage tomorrow as there are a couple of things they said would be fixed, which arent. I wanted to know if there was anything more serious than a blown/bad radiator that could be causing this issue? As i've only had it a couple of days, if it was found to have e.g a blown HG, i'm sure i'd have a case to take it back! Any more thoughts would be welcomed....Thanks!!

Help! I've recently bought an Impreza STI Type UK Hawkeye (56 plate). When i picked it up and drove it home, once it was warm i gave it the beans on a couple of straights. I noticed after a couple of major runs through 1st, 2nd and 3rd, the water temp went sky high on the dial - very nearly fully into the red zone. I stopped straight away and took a look at the coolant bottle - it was nearly completely empty. The garage i bought it from were meant to be doing a full service on it - maybe they didn't top the coolant up enough? So i filled it up and allowed the engine to cool, which it did fairly quickly. Since filling the coolant up, the level has not dropped and it has not overheated during normal driving, even on a run to and from work including sitting in traffic (15 miles each way). However if do a full acceleration through the gears, the temperature goes up again towards the red zone on the dial. Has anyone had this problem before? Suggestions desperately required as i'm currently paranoid i've bought a dodgy motor!! I just don't understand why the temperature is fine on normal driving, even sat in traffic for long periods, yet when i floor the accelerator pedal a few times, the car gets too hot. Help appreciated!!