jef

please no-one take this offensivley, my psts are never ment in that way, i agree its things you dont anticipate that cause set backs - or just things (like me) that i dont know or havent experienced and others have. i hear you all and i do apprciate your feedback - im not an idiot, i served my time as a mechanic and workd in the trade for 9 years before going to college to do an honours degree in automotive mechanical engineering - which btw i dropped out after a year lol. but yes i am very much a try it first an see for myself type of person. as youve all probbly guessed. and ive absolutley no problem coming back and agreeing with everyone once its back, and ive swapped the turbo to a 30r or changed pipework ect. but that will only be done after ive experienced the car. and if im not happy. i dont know if thats the final compressor housing position, and i dont know if there are any other resons why pipe work will end up the way it does, ive just paid someone to build me a set up. i do know that the feul rail feed means theres even less space for i/c pipework under the inlet ive seen the pics posted above of the more direct i/c feeds - however i do also trust my builder to give me what i asked of him. ill happily accept what he does and go from there. i really dont thnk ill be disappointed. the biggest problem for me now is mapping it, as it will be done on the road, is this even going to be possible in the proabale weather conditions ahead? thanks again for the input people i do honstly appreciate it, even if you think i dont lol

cheers arch yeah understand the turbo to i/c pipework, a few reasons its like that first my i/c inlets and outlets are at bottom of i/c as opossed to top on some set ups second, because i asked for that coil pack, clearnace between coil pack and bonnet was an issue, had to get thinner thermal spacers, and so space under inlet was reduced, its now too small to fit pipework - plus the obv power steering pump. not 100% sure thats the final outlet position of the turbo pipework. either way itll stay as it is until its back and run in and set up. if theres any obvious issue i may consider changing at later date. but for the time being itll stay as is. im happy with things, and confident itll do what i want it to. cheers for comments

also big thnks to compbrake supplying me with 2 brand new calipers, even though i wasnt origional purchaser and no receipt. they arranged colletion and had 2 new calipers back in 2 days - great service.

few updates, new calipers and engine bay shots well happy with things so far, cant wait to get her back, run in and usable for next year.

well the caliper issue has been happily resolved even though i wasnt origional buyer, nor did i have a receipt or proof of purchase, compbrake arranged collection of calipers for inspection, then supplied me with a brand new set of calipers, all within a week cant ask for more than that great service - and i applaud companies which deserve praise. couldve easily fought me all the way, claiming id modified/altered/fitted incorrectly ect - but no, without question sent out a brand new set so thanks to compbrake for that

love the pics btw would love some more if you guys have any? cheers

ok mate, thanks for that, i just wanted shot of the old set up where the coils kept cracking, and causing missfire under boost, didnt realise the new age set up was better cheers:)

just picking up on playsatan points mate, yeah i notice my throttle cable is opposite side yours and clearly see the p/s pump blocking potential i/c pipe work, however these are mock up pics , i will wait and see what the outcome is, they may well be moved to accomodate. arch wheres your coil/ht lead set up on yours, cant see anything?

thanks for above replies and pics - thats great reference for how my set up may finish, ill post pics of how it ends up in comparison to above but thanx for above, gives me some idea of whats possibly going to be the outcome. keep people posted

cheers for that mate, i never knew that its been a while now, im hoping itll be done in next 2 weeks, just in time for the rubbish weather and salty roads probably lol

arch, thats just shots of the engine being trial fitted all the i/c pipe work will be bespoke - but im not doing the build myself so not sure, it does look slightly angled down i think too - its a build theyve done many times before so i presume they have a technique to overcome the issues. i remeber talking about the icv, its a v5 manifold which i think has diffenrt wiring than the donor vehicle loom, so i think its being worked on, and just not been completed at that point. Maybe you kknow more? i cant see where it fits on that manifold, how is that version of manifold set up do you know? but arch maybe you could tell me, the turbo exit on the cold side, looks very close to the wing/bodywork - do rotated setups usually have a sharp bend in I/C pipework at that point, or am i missing something/being a bit daft lol cheers for any info

that looks a proper good job mate. very nice, and close to me - ill definately remember them when the time comes.

forgot this one

few updates and pics. the brake kit is compbrake and brand new calipers, but possibly a small issue with them at the moment? rest just engine bay taking shape - its taking ages but these keep me smiling and remind me why im doing it lol

cheers bud, like i said theyve been growing on me think on silver classic will look good, i hope haha

for me, pretty boring bit, had to get 18s to cover brakes, but these are growing on me more than i thought they would, and actually liking them now lol

that valves been cut or ripped out mate. ive never ever seen a valve fail like that on its own accord in ten years, and tens if thousands of tyre replacements. be it by accident or not. if youve ran on it flat tyre could be fcked a new valve you dont have to remove tyre just push bead down past the wheel lip, altho doing either way will take about 30 seconds. but id be very suspicous - the flier idea is the one id go for. fcking cnuts mate, hope you catch them

small update, reverse manifold back from fabricators, reduced size cosworth heat spacers required to increase manifold to bonnet clearance. after speaking with steve simpson a lot recently my car will be one of the first to be mapped on the new version of simtek ecu it will be setup on TEG motorsport rollers for a running in map byhim or bob rawle. pics to follow of the setup, intercooler pipework being made up, needed to get wheels to cover my brakes, which ended up being massive issue trying to find right offset with rim width. colcour was limited, and of limited importance, but painted anyway. just to keep this thread from dying - seen the thread on SN with the api cosworth 2.1 running a 35r with decent results, altho 10% meth map, obv major effect in initial spool point but great result none the less

what was the origional fault mate? glad its back on the road yeah ive found out to my detriment, they shouldnt be working on subarus

whitleine anti roll bars, brakes, and geometry set up. obv assuming all is well with engine. the baffled sump, or cosworth baffle plate probably quite important if your really going to hammering it. once i had my arb,s solid droplinks and geomeery done the car, handled and cornered with much more stability. as long as springs/shocks are not worn. then coilovers, oil cooler, the list goes on and on tbh

getting there looks sweet imo

yeah mate thats not how to do buisness, you pay when you say you will end of! no excuses, no sh*te, and if you cant make it then man up, and say so

a severe grinding noise when you press the stop pedal usually relates to metal to metal contact ie pads worn right down best bet is whip front wheels off for a good look mate

looks very nice mate

API are doing it mate