MarkJHarris

Sorry you didn't enjoy the restaurant at the Tiergarten! We had a couple of really nice nights there when I went. Defo recomend mid week closed track day trips. Open pit lane makes all the difference- you keep the speed up passed the tolls on the straight and through the kink at full speed into teirgarten corner complex before the gantry- fantastic and impossible to appreciate when you pull out of the toll area. I must get back one day....

Pumping losses...... If you drive really gently, the Hawk should in theory produce worse fuel economy. The fundemental differences in engine were that the Blob STi has forged pistons and rods as it is a competition homologated engine. Fully closed deck block, (the liners are cast in fully) and steel crank. The 2.5 is a semi closed deck block, with cast pistons and rods. The Head bolts don't like anything over 1.3 BAR boost else the gaskets can fail (like on mine). It was the Hatch that came with a modified engine with cheese pistons as stock. Even standard they are a time bomb and Subaru should be ashamed, frankly. The WRX is far more similar though, neither should be wound up too much.....

Alan, What's you Cheapest offering to get the Hatch guys proper Pistons installed? On a fairly new standard engine, would it be reasonable to re-piston standard unmolested engines without re-boring, etc? Subaru should be ashamed sending out these cars like this. Do Hawkeye 2.5 pistons differ much from Hatch ones?

Yes they were/are available as an accessory to replace the fog lights that come as standard. On an Sti the fog light wiring is in place and to fit them you need a pair of fog lights and a switch and relay in the fuse box, plus a pair of WRX coverss. The STi blanks can go right over the top afterwards when you don't need them. The driving lights are wired differently though...probably a relay and jumper loom in the kit, but I'm sure you can make your own if desperate.

I reckon Rally drivers and Pro Motorcycle riders are wired up differently from the rest of us.....It's about risk perception. they might be excellent at actually flying the things but shouldn't be let within a mile of the controls. End of. I'm a pilot, and can't drift a car or slide my knee. I know my limits. Shame Colin didn't.

I hasd mine done, primarily to protect from glass if i had a prang. (last car had them and it worked great). I had clear on the front and 50% on the rear. Subtle...

Turbo, intercooler? Heavier shell as it's designed to be a stiffer torsionally to cope with Group N comps and also frameless doors? Could be cobblers though, only a guess.

It went to Alan Jefferys in Plympton for an engine rebuild. Nice job too. My HQ is just up the road in Exeter so it worked out easier that way.

Ring Prosport up and ask. They'll probably be happy to tell you what they've done or what they know of it's history. Always good knowing stuff like this.

Defo tints. When I lost my previous scoobies, the impact took all the side glass out. Being frameless it's more likely at lower speeds too. The rear side came out in one and I managed to pick the shattered glass up as one from the roadside... The front side went everywhere! My current car has. Ery light tint on the rearvand back doors and the lightest shade on the front doors. Safer and helps to stops smash'n'grabs too!

Bear in mind your old original one had the ability for four players whereas the second model 40gb on did not. Mines the 40gB fatty and still going strong. I was told at the time Sony would take the 60gB in for fixing but send a 40gB back as they were quietly tryign to get them out of the market. Must be because they played PS2 games as well...... Yours is more a relic and piece of history now- I'd hold onto it and sell it to the British Museum in a few years.

Oh dear. Understeer R us..... Poor thing had no chance of doing a tidy donut. Lowered right down, front roll centre close to the Earth's core and with the rear camber basically no chance. Mine will rotate on it's gear lever with a bit of effort (on winter ice preferably with the price of tyres). Fun but expensive.

Mine work fine too. The boost gauge has a tube that goes to a sender unit which you mount somewhere close. My one problem is the scoobyworld pod is not brilliant as the gauges don't face you and suffer from reflections. the Defi pod is a bit large but the scooby one could be improved on no end.

SC46 should give you 500hp or so. The 2.5 needs work to give a proper power rise, as head gaskets will go with 1.5BAR for any length of time. ~The engine uses cast pistons and rods and semi-closed deck block. A set of Wiseco pistons, K1 rods and a balanced crank on ACL bearings should be your first step before trying to get serious power reliably. That's where I am now.

Still for sale! I've laid the Scooby up now as I can't afford the fuel! Driving a taxi instead! one day I'll be back.....

Think I might be keeping my Hawkeye for a very long time then......

Bugger. The Prodrive rear box is just too noisy for me! Wakes the kids up at 5am when I go to work on early shift. Back to standard. Anyone fancy a nice clean shiny Prodrive back box? Fits onto O.E. or Prodrive mid section. Pm me if you want it!

On the basis you've got a WRX or an STi, the Hawkeye uses a 2.5litre motor. This is a semi-closed deck engine with cast pistons and rods, and the STi uses a steel billet crank. The engine is not Homologated for competition and stems from the American market where tehy wanted a larger displacement, it really belongs in the bigger models. The problem with the 2.5 is the pistons and head gaskets/head bolts don't like a lot of boost. The WRX runs 0.7BAR trailing to 0.4BAR boost with a TD05 Turbo. This can be increased to 1.1BAr max trailing to 0.7 bar and the engine will take that happily. Limitations are injector size, (the duty cycle needed means thay're open all the time) and the Intercooler which is not big enough. The STi runs bigger injectors and intercooler, plus a VF39 or VF43 turbo so it runs a nominal 1.0BAR boost throughout. With an uprated fuel pump, if you push it beyond 1.3BAR you'll blow the head gaskets. The Head bolts stretch and then the heads leak. Beyond 1.5BAR it will dfefinitely leak and presurise the coolant blowing it out and stinking. The long term effects are you'll get failing pistons or rings. Not ideal. Done properly the 2.5 block is fine. Balanced cranks, forged rods and pistons and proper head studs and gaskets and the engine will give 700hp with exterior bolt on work. Front mount Intercooler, SC46 Billet turbo, 650cc injectors, Equal length headers and up-pipe and ful 3" straight through exhaust will give over 500hp with map and extensive head porting, etc will yield 700hp or so. The car's chassis depends on model. A WRX with hot engine will eat its gearbox and diffs in no time. An STi's 6 speed box and diffs will take all you can throw at them all day long. Hope that helps.

Actually, fake or not, I couldn't fault the camera driver at all. Neither car failed to signal, neither appeared to speed except for the short time after the "accident". Seen far worse many times......

Right then. Normal service resumed. Big wing and big tailpipe....justa another scooby now..........

Should be. Shall I send you the body down then? I can co-mail it to the Guernsey Base Manager of Flybe for free and ask him to leave it at the desk at the airport to collect if you want? Mark.

Out of money for more work for a bit..... If you can, I'll send you the r/c body so you can have a miniature to look at. Any old 1/10 scale tamiya chassis will fit under it.

Well that was an interesting two days....... Train from Exeter to Plymouth after work and a nice two hour walk up to Alan's for exercise. (Fail due to inability to pass the Mcdonald's nearby!!). Got the car at 4pm and went back to Exeter for a rest then set off on LeGrandTour to run it in a bit for the Dyno. A30-A303-M3-M25-M4-M5...yawn. Sunset to sunrise then a few hours kip and back to Plymouth for the Dyno. Hmm. Hapy bunny. The Vibration it always had right at the bottom end which I put down to it being a 4wd tractor was actually a cracked spark plug. Doh. The engine smokes a bit, quite oily, but is turbine smooth all the way and quite eager. The Clutch is hardly any heavier than O.E. and futureproof. So, Standard map- 276bhp. (It was 1020mb pressure on the day so the dyno reduces raw figures by 4%- important on comparisons). Softened the boost as it comes in to make it slightly smoother but otherwise standard, but leaned out from the Subaru (safety) ratio as I run on V power. 309.2bhp. Nice. Second map is basically boosting at the turbo's maximum capacity. 1.5BAR trailing down to 1BAR. First run was 319, then 323, etc. Bearing in mind the old engine was Dynoed with this boost at 362 bhp and 390lbft, but at a pressure of 980mb, then my final run peak of 344.5bhp and 375lbft was pretty similar if not slightly better. As Martyn said, it's got 750 miles on it and running on mineral oil...plus it used to have a Scoobyworld 3" system and now has a standard half rotten mid section and prodrive back box on. VERY glad to have it back. Now up to 1050 miles and smooth but still quite oily. At least it's cheapo oil... I have to say I like the RACEROM. I have the launch control, and flat foot shifting options in, and they work very well. The shifting keeps the rpm within 100rpm of the point you touch the clutch and only works on full throttle. There's a slight clunk but it works perfectly when changing down(if your chosen gear isn't enough) or up. Launch control holds it at 4,500rpm and i didn't have the downshift blipper option set, because I can work both feet perfectly well myself thank you. All in all, an expensive way to fix a leaky head gasket Am I tempted to check the price for the headers, full 3" system and SC46 turbo and perrrin stealth FMIC? err...... Oh, and JD, your car needs a wash! Looks similar to my R/C 1/10th scale blobby body- can you get all those stickers made up in 1/10th scale by any chance.

Well, Alan sent me the pictures of the rods, pistons and block, so I'm properly eager to get her back now! Hopefully ready for me on the 28th to run in overnight..... Full spec is K1 forged rods, Wiseco Pistons, ACF bearings, balanced standard 2.5 STi cranks, AP organic clutch. That lot is good for about 700hp if needed.... Standard turbo and air filter, etc with de-cat downpipe and Prodrive back box. RACEROM mapping hpefully on the 29th after a few laps of the M25 overnight.... One with all the bells and whistles, one for commuting/shopping about town. A WRX could blow me away with that map running.......but I'll have petrol left when he runs out...

I wouldn't worry about anyone else trying, Subaru have a three year sponsorship deal of the TT so no-one will be allowed before 2014!