scooby666

i'd have thought the fact you raise the faults in the 30 day warranty will mean you're covered. No doubt some 'dealers' will put up a fight about certain problems but it wouldnt stand up in a small claims court unless their warranty specifically names items not covered.

Hi Rich Yep ive got the commander - struggling to find where to plug it in at the mo though!! I was wondering if having the apexi fitted would result in me not getting the standard code if (/when!) I found the diag connectors. Anyway, I'll report back tomorrow - thanks for your help

Thanks Iain - having looked through the codes with a 2 at the end the knock sensor one looked the most likely to me aswell. I dont notice a change in performance but then I only ever see this light when the car is at a pretty unstressed state - when it happens I would have accelerated (not particulalrly hard) for a short stretch to get onto the dual carriageway and then eased off to about 50 as its always busy. 10 -15 secs later i'd possibly get the cel flash. I'll limber up for some contortionism at the weekend and track these connectors down to get the real code cheers

Hi All I've been putting off posting this as it lends itself to one of those 'well it could be anything' type answers but, having failed in an attempt to locate the black connectors under the drivers side dash last night, I thought i'd risk it. 1998 Uk Turbo - only modification is an Apexi Power FC ECU. I get the CEL pulse twice in quick succession occasionally and its starting to bug me. It seems to do it in almost exactly the same location on my drive back from work on a very flat stretch of dual carriageway, 5th gear prob around 50mph around 2.8 - 3k rpm and no boost - so very little load imo. I get two quick blinks and then I dont see it again until in a similar location a day or so after - theres no change in engine noise/driveability so it's got me stumped. While I was under the dash looking for these connectors I noticed what looked a bit like an ECU diag port just to the left of the little cubby hole above your right knee when sat in the drivers seat - is this a red herring or is this some kind of retrofitted ODBII port? i will have another look under the dash at the weekend but unless theyve been tucked away I couldnt see any sign of these black or green connectors the classic should have Any suggestions or is it really a case of getting the code rather than jumping to conclusions? thanks Damian

you guys must have very understanding other half's ... I nearly had my you know whats chopped off when i went near the dishwasher with a cam cover once - now im not allowed over the doorstep without being searched for car parts first

Splendid cheers Iain - I hate windback tools so that makes things reassuringly more simple

Morning all Looks like I need to change the front pads of my newly acquired 98 T2000. I'm assuming the pistons have to be wound back being an ABS car? Did a search and the couple of posts that go through changing the pads skip over moving the piston back altogether - so just wanted to check. thanks Damian

Theres plenty of jap style back boxes around (angled exit), altho as i found out to my detriment - certain brands like the hks will only hook up to a hks centre section as the pipe from the silencer to the centre section is at a different angle than standard. Always worth double checking that before buying unless you want to do the centre section at the same time. japperformanceparts.co.uk should give you some ideas of the variety of exhausts around - they have a good selection of 2nd hand parts, although some of the parts arent priced with that fact in mind from what ive seen! Changing the back box will certainly increase the volume of the pops and bangs over the prodrive so a good alternative to the flames I reckon. Damian

The flames are unburnt fuel igniting through the exhaust system ... meaning you'd need to being running richer on the overun to get some fireworks. Cats dont like unburnt fuel though so if it's something you really want to do then probably best to decat it or get saving up for a new cat to use at mot time. Depending on the ecu you're running you can actually map it to do the flame throwing - you just need to add more fuel than the engine needs at the load/speed sites that you want the flames at. Not ideal imo but each to their own

nightmare mate There's obviously an issue somewhere else in the system that is causing the breakdown - few things to tick off the list before you get the matches out 1) engine earths are present, clean & free from rust 2) spark plugs are in good condition with no obvious damage to casing or electrode 3) not sure about the coils on the imports but if the leads plug into the coil rather than them being a single component (ie lead & coil together) then check the condition & spec of the HT lead is correct & in good repair. Is anything else weird going on in the car aswell? HTH damian

I'd look to do what DaOne suggests. It'll leave the ABS light on the dash but as part of the mot the guys *should* be checking the ABS lights up at ignition then extinguishes shortly after. If it stays illumunated or doesnt light up atall it *should* fail.

Cheers for that BMWhere Tally's up exactly with what sigma sam reckoned. There's a factory immobilser fitted thats working from a transponder in the key itself, but no alarm. I suspect what happend is the chap that got the car originally (im only the 3rd owner) opted for a tracker rather than the cat1 for the insurance, as ive got the reg form for it in the mountain of paperwork i got with the car. Sigma sam pointed me in the direction of a toad device that can do the central locking blipper that i'm looking to invest in for now for not a huge about of cashesh. thanks again guys Great resource youve got going here. Damian

Thanks guys I cant see a siren in the engine bay but im in that inbetween year MY98 so I suspect its not got the sigma that the 99/00's all enjoy. I'll give sigma sam a nudge and see what he thinks then. Its that or i grow another pair of arms to stop the kids running off while I unlock the car cheers for the offer jon - could well be interested if it turns out I do need one. Damian

Hi All Well, had my car for a few weeks now and absolutely loving it The one thing that is starting to grate though is that I dont have a fob/blipper to do the central locking and have to stick the key in the drivers door to unlock all the doors. Sounds a bit trivial I guess but the realities of having 2 little monsters to load up alot of the time and having to go to the drivers door first ... it becomes a right pain So ... did the uk spec classic come with a fob or do I need to put investing into an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser system higher up the priority list? cheers Damian

Good for you mate - its a great feeling just paying out for the mot charge rather than a load of work aswell isnt it My 98 t2000 is going in next month and i'm feeling confident too. For 10 yr old cars they're a damn sight better put together than my mrs 4 yr old megane I can tell ya ... Damian

hiya mate Seems a popular thing to do - there's a very detailed walkthrough of whats required on scoobypedia. Great little site for scooby newbies like myself that I've spent the last week trawling through

Theorectically it should be similar to as you describe so cant see a probelm other than possibly having to extend a wiring run or two. I'm not sure on how many connections the sides have in comparison to the indicators, but from a legal perspective aslong as the indicators flash amber it'll go through an mot and be fine. You need to get out more tho mate :laugh:

Big brake conversion is deffo the way to go if you're planning on doing lots of track days but if this is your first I'd keep the credit card bashing to a minimum mate. Pads would be a good investment for your first day - mintex 1155's get fairly good ratings plus if you havent had your brake fluid changed for a couple of years it would be a good idea to flush that out with some new higher boiling point fluid. That'd probably set you back about a 100 quid and give you a a more resilient braking setup over standard - and avoids you shelling out the best part of 600 before you even get to a track! The other thing to mention about track days is its usually advised to not put your handbrake on after coming straight into the pits having cained it for a good time as the disks will be super hot and the pads can get stuck on if you put the handbrake on. Damian

yes, interesting reading nathan - you must have spent some time getting all the info in the one place so well done mate (although I wish I hadnt found the link to JPerformance ... looks like I'm gonna need to hide the credit card again doh!) I'll take a few shots of my baby once ive done the clear lense conversion - the orange-fest just isnt doing it for me thanks again

ace, cheers nathan - just what I was after

cheers Ian thats great - I'm guessing the headlights are the same shape then, just crystals ???

Hi all Some of you will have seen I joined the fold last week. I thought I better get the newbie questions out the way Absolutely loving the car but have had the urge to make a couple of minor cosmetic updates (clear lenses etc) What I noticed fairly quickly on was that my 98 car is sitting in the switchover period to the facelift model. I'm pretty sure I have a non facelift that just happens to have been registered in 98, but could someone confirm please. Pic is in my newbie post here What was the facelift - I can see the bumper has just two fins next to the foglight compared to the three on the non but is there anything else different? I'm going to need a new headlight for my mot as it has a chip in it so I'm just trying to make sure I dont get the wrong one. Also, is it a type 2 / 3 or 4? many thanks all - hopefully that'll be it for the obvious questions and i'll keep it technical form now on! cheers Damian

Probably worth taking a couple of 20 litre jerry cans full of petrol unless you want to go offsite every time you're running low on juice. The circuits with pumps onsite usually charge a premium. Other than that, if you intend to give your motor a hard time on track and its been a while since it's had a service then its usually a good idea to to give it an oil change shortly after. The car is likely to be getting a much harder work out on track compared to on the road so if your oil's fairly old it will deffo be past its best after a full day of thrashing it! Damian

Morning All Just thought i'd get that awkward 'hello im new' post out the way before joining in on the fun here. Picked up my first scooby this week - did a 300 mile round trip to get it as the condition its in is quite remarkable for an 11 yr old car. It's a 98 UK 2000 the only mod being an apexi ecu with a 'slight' remap I've spent the last 5 years playing with Westfield kit cars but, having lavished lots of money on it, family commitments & our glorious (not) summers made it a rather expensive toy to have in use for a dozen times a year. So ... the hunt was on to find something a bit more practical (a roof to keep the rain out was at the top of the list!) but something that would still give me a smile if i buried my right foot ... and there's only one car that really fits that bill isnt there So here's mine - pretty tame looking in the scheme of things but I like handling and power to do the talking rather than the 'Ive ram raided Halfords' look so I already have an upgrade list as long as my arm. Looking forward to meeting some of you at a meet/event in the future cheers Damian