stealth69

UK bugs and blobs STIs run at 275bhp UK bugs and blobs WRX run at 225bhp JDM STI's are just over 280bhp i Believe we don't know what he has but if it is a UK car it has been played with if it is pushing 280bhp!!

* What rear spats are those and where do I get some from? - you can get the Spat almost anywhere , I believe HTAutos do spats for the blobs * What front bumper is it and again, where can I get one? Will just be the STI front bumper with a lower lip, again check HTAutos * Wheels – They are Rota Grid drifts, they wiil be the 9.5" rims with that dish so the offset will be about ET38 available from rare rims * Lowering You will need coilovers to fit these wheels and get the drop you want, you might also require Camber bolts all round * Arches Your arches will need rolling and pulling to accom to accom these rims * Apexi Power Intake Pointless unless you are fitting a front mount, the std airboxes on these cars i good for 400bhp+ with a decent panel filter, spend your money elsewhere

There's a chance that water could get in to any induction kit, it's a risk you take with one of these bits of kit, but it would have to be a substantial amount of water to be fair as by the time it's got close enough to a white hot turbo it will have evapourated and the water would have to travel a hell of a long way. Is your car an STI or a WRX? if an STI it hasn't been mapped at 280bhp if WRX it certainly has been mapped or at least had it's boost raised in some manor.

If the car has been mapped for the K&N then keep the K&N mate, if it hasnt then take it off!! The stardard airbox with a decent filter is good for over 400bhp so you certainly wont loose anything by changing back. I think i have an airbox etc from my bugeye somwhere as I had to go induction kit with my FMIC, let me see if it is around anywhere

a FMIC being restrictive at 400bhp??? are you sure chap? that means your FMIC is more restrictive than a newage STI TMIC are all the pipes heat wrapped to stop soak?? you shouldnt really get heat soak on the core as its always got col air flowing in to it and the engine is behind it......... ind it very odd!!!! Japspeed on scoobynet are doing FMIC's that are no doubt good for 500+ bhp, i ave one on my car and it is running like a dream

Didn't the rumour of idle warm up damage start with BMW? something to do with sitting still whilst running that rich just cokes everything up ? It does no harm, you just blow it out once th car is up to temp

Wouldn't touch it even if my car was worth 50quid....... these chips are bad news and I don't care what anybody says!!! Imprezas are all individual beasts, you have two cars with the same mods but they would both need very different maps, that's the way the cars are, you cannot just go around applying a generic map to these cars with mods, they WILL have problems!! Save your pennies and get a proper Map done that is tailored for your car, there are sooooo many good mappers around, cut corners now on a ****e chip and you will find yourself forking out 3x more than a map on a new engine.

STI Engine change, how hard can it be? I have jsut bought an STI 9 bottom end to go in my STI 7 as I wanted torque of the 2.5 etc etc usual reasons really. How hard is to do the change, as far as I can tell provided I take my time and pay attentino it can't be that difficult.... can it?? I'm not shy when it comes to taking things apart. I'm trying to decide whether I should do the chop over myself, get a garge to do it or jsut sell the bottom end and stick with what I got if it's far too much agro. I know it's a bit late to be thinking these things once I have bought the engine but it was a spur of the moment thing and seemed like a brilliant Idea at the time LOL Thanks in advance

I agree with T5NYW, the 6 speed box is suited to track but is a pain in the a*** on UK roads, it really is, but that is in my STI7, it's prolly slightly different with the newer 2.5's The lower speed limits over here catch your gears just wrong, you either seem to be too high in the rev range for 30/40mph or too low, you are ALWAYS changing gear or missing a couple just winds me up Having said all that I love my car and it goes like stink with the 6 speed box and 70mph cruise is 2600rpm or summit daft like that LOL

As Iain has pointed out, Overboost happens whe nthe engine is under huge load so you would expect ti to happen in 4 and 5th gear really as these are the gears that generate most load on the engine. Fuel cut feels like you are smashing head long in to a wall, is this what it feels like or does it just feel like the car stops pulling Overboost can happen anytime under load, it depends on conditions, if the weatehr is really cold it can happen quicker, slightly warmer ambient temps would cause it to do it slightly later.... just depends. Have you tried running past 80 110 etc NOT on full chat and see if you stil lget any sort of lurching? Say 3/4 throttle. Do you have a boost gauge fitted to the car ?

As Andy says damage is the main thing to look for, also check the car is cold when you turn it over, cold starts will tell you more than a wamr start. You are listening for any rattles and knocks etc. The gearboxes on these cars is a bit of a let down as well, only really suffer from high torque applications or neglect, make sure the gearbox doesn't whine and goes in to every gear smoothly with subtle hints of cunching Wht he has written in the advert stating that teh Import Type-R came with stronger internals than the P1 is bollox.... A P1 is an imported Type-R fettled with by Prodrive but they never changed the block, so it appears he's not great on his knowledge, don't let him bull**** you i nto buying the car. If you have any doubts what so ever, walk away from the car and compare it to another one.

to be honest I left this thread well alone after the passing of Tweenie Rob I didn't want to bring it up to the top again for a number of reasons, I would rather start a new thread.

LOL I go through there daily, often in the wifes car, but when I am in the Scoob I never get any joy from anyone that way... To posh to wave

All depends on what size ya get How much money do you have to spend?

Have a nose on NASIOC.com mate, ALOT of the yanks plump for this turbo on their STI's and are getting decent power figures summit like 300+bhp at the wheels which is about 370bhp at the fly and most of them are making this power on s**** off the shelf ECU's (off the shelf ECU map, honestly.......... I ask you!!! ) Would make for a rapid motor I feel!

There ya go then, boost solenoid knackered LOL As Iain says, get it plugged in and you will be cooking mate provided the dipstick that did all this work hasn't completely farked something else up!!!!

0.5bar is the waste gate operating pressure there for your Boost solenoid must be knaackered OR your map is screwed.... or the car is just in some sort of limp mode.... Try taking the battery off for 15mins, this will reset the ECU then try nd give her a bag full (once warm obviously) and see what comes.... if it boosts then the solenoid is fine, it is something else causing the issue

Iain is all over most things like a rash Good ol Boy It looks like Stevie Wonder and the Chuckle Brothers teamed up and had a go at modding a Subaru!! re-plumb DV

Hang on a minute... the Lambda sensor i nthe downpipe isn't plugged in???? That would be contributory to your problem, the O2 sensor is certainly a requirement, your fueling will be all over the place without that plugged in mate so that could be your idle problem Also MAF sensor would cause this problem if it was on it's way out, give it a clean mate, leave the car at idle then unplug the MAF and see what the car does..... by rights it should stall itself.

OK so it's not just at 100+mph, it's all Gears under hard acceleration?

Ahh haa that would explain it

I agree I would expect it to happen in 3rd - 5th gear under hard acceleration as you will easily make full boost in these gears but it depends I guess... is the car actually making full boost in 3rd? it could be extra load on the engine in the higher gears causing it to overboost? I knackered MAF would display other characteristics such as sketchy idle hunting, car cutting out when you come to lights etc.... Also the MAF wouldn't normally cause the car to stop suddenly would it??? I would have thought the car would just get a false reading from the MAF and try to adjust the fueling accordingly (but falsely) running the car lean or Rich, that was my understanding anywho LOL Is the Wastegate sketchy?? If the solenoid is on it's way out the waste gate could be flapping around or staying shut too long causing more pressure (boost) which is activating the Fuel cut in 5th, does the boost feel irratic i.e. does it pull hard then drop back and then pull hard again ?

The 100 CEL should be fine, I suspect they are covering their own a***s..... TSL on the other hand give you peace of mind with their Thundercat 100CEL Downpipe ThunderCat Hooooooe This is what I run and it passed the MOT although it did have to be run around the block once to get her warm, but that could have just been my mad rich mapthat was on there at the time

my 93 WRX showed the handbreak warning light when the pads needed replaing and once i replaced them the warning light vanished.... go figure lol

EEEEKKKKK You will end up with the crashiest car i nthe world and the money you save from not buying decent suspension will soon be spent on a back specialist. a mate fitted something like this to his BMW E36 325 and they were dog poo mate! Save your money and get some real coilovers