mejamj

ok thanks, I'm currently running a WRX flywheel and exedy uprated clutch

im runing an impreza GC8 road rally car, so due to regulations I cannot run a turbo. I thought the best route was to buy a legacy 2.5 manual as a donor car as its 2.5 and 4 cylinders keeping in with the rules. the problem is I've finished building it and its not very revvy, is there anyone out there re-mapping these or offering decent cam upgrades? its the SOHC engine oh and Im running RWD

Hello I had a P1 gearbox rebuilt to go with my legacy 2.5 na engine the clutch mechanism appears to be a cable operated one and the impreza GC8 I'm building an the legacy donor car are hydraulic Does anyone know 100% to confirm this for me many thanks

I am liking your response, the rwd sport you drove, how was the conversion done? I have heard it can be as simple as removing the front shafts however the sensible option being to strip down the transfer box and welding the planet gear or replace the front drive with a bypass (kinda mini prop i guess?) transferring power directly to the rear.

PARTS AND ADVICE NEEDED... This may sound like sacrilege to many impreza heads as Im building a NON TURBO, REAR WHEEL DRIVE impreza, but please read on and hopefully you will see my reasoning.. The car is being prepared for next years welsh road rally championship (WAMC) road ralling rules state that non turbocharged vehicles must be used and to a maximum of 4 cylinders. The Legacy 2.5 naturally aspirated engine seems the obvious transplant for this build as im hoping the install will be successful with only changing the ECU and maybe some wiring, as i haven't found the donor car yet I am open to suggestions or anyone out there with parts. So I acquired this impreza from a friend for all it owed him which was very little, I am competing currently in the welsh championship in a front wheel drive car and finding it great fun, but cant help noticing that the mk2 escorts still dominate the top 10 on nearly every event. So here is my cheaper modern option a RWD scooby. I am aiming to build it as 4x4 to get it running as currently it's missing.. Engine box etc, rad, fuel pump.. it's basically a rolling shell. So once its driving and legal, i just know the 170bhp is not going to be enough power to throw it flat out in the technical stuff where critically understeer in dominant in the impreza.. allas the RWD will give oversteer on tap and increase the pleasure factor by a few i'm sure. Finally is there anyone out here who knows the best way to maybe get the power output up into the 200's without going mad on the spend?

I need a replacement key as my house mate threw out my whole keyring last night with the rubbish (which is already deep in landfill!) including 2 different house's keys, my new van and my bug eye scooby. so A BIT GUTTED looking at the initial replacement option as the dealer prices are so high! the most expensive item is the key at £115 +35 to program the transponder into the car.. surely their is a lower price option to having my key replaced? Ive looked on ebay and found blank 2 button keys including the transponder inside but think the dealer may not fancy doing the tune in even tho they charge £35 for it. When i was getting my new house keys cut today I showed the key cutter my spare scooby key and he said he could cut a replacement key but not do the transponder tuning. any help would be greatly appreciated.

hello, I have a rattling noise coming from the back of the turbo, The car is going up on a ramp monday morning so I wanted to get the cat down pipe off to see if the turbo is rattling or something in the cat/down pipe off the back of the turbo. has anyone had a similar problem and is their an easy way to get this disconnected without taking anything else off as i want to run the engine once disconnected to hear where the rattle is coming from... thanks

hello, I have a uk300 bugeye, When it was new it really pinned me into the buckets when I pulled off, and as the turbo spooled up nicely it kept pushing me further into the seat. (as our bodies dont react to constant speed the same as acceleration, this is a great feeling of power) Problem is the car is now 8-9 years old. Its been well looked after and serviced by Subaru dealers upto 95,000 miles however its done 106,000 now and Ive done the work myself now its getting old. But the cars lost its power especially at low end pull off, it doesn't pin me in the seat like it used too at all. The turbo still does its thing at the higher revs. Ideally it needs a rolling road run to diagnose where the power is flat and give room for tuning up. But thats all money I dont have right now. I think it could be the injectors as they have never been changed or serviced, but is their anything else you guys can think of? I did the cam belt this week and all the timing is perfect so it not that.. I understand a performance car of its age and millage will loose power if not kept in excellent tune, but surely a lot of you on here are in the same boat as me.

hello, I have a rattle on my scooby at tickover and low revs, (around 1,500) which radiply dissappears as the revs build up any ammount and returns when left to settle again. The sound appears to be coming from the back of the turbo, it is most present when I open the bonnnet and place my ear directly above the turbo sheild. Their is a small chance the sound is coming from the clutch/gearbox as I changed the clutch recently. However when I just put the car up on a ramp the sound appeared to be resonating down the 1st cat (attached to the turbo) I thought I had found the problem on the ramp as a rogue jubilee clip was straggled on the cat which is a little bit worrying anyway! I know some of u guys on here are top notch with common faults, and i dont really want to be taking parts off at this stage just to see if the rattle stops! Thanks.

I fitted a new clutch a few weeks ago and done some easy driving on it for about 250 miles, then early this morning about 3 am I was on open tarmac making my way home rather sharpish and worked the old UK300 as she should be. But this afternoon on the way to greggs for a sausage roll and dohnut the clutch started smoking, it smelt a little when i finished my 1 hour 65 mile stint but no smoke untill later on, today it was smoking behind the turbo and the heat guard on the turbo appeared to be resonating at tick over a little too. it was running quite hot. I fitted an exedy clutch purchased off ebay and it was slightly to big (only about 3mm) so my mechanic mate said thats prob burning off a little as i didnt smooth off the fly wheel when fitting the clutch. any help or knowledge appreciated. thanks (how quick was that tyre change with loeb in sardinia!!)

sounds like your right. would explain why the sound has gone, and the pipe must have been splitting since i got the car last year as it too chirped like the wrc car but maybe for the wrong reason!!

just found the sound Im trying to explain on a youtube video at 23-24 seconds in you can hear the subaru make the wooshing sound when the throttle is relesed. What is causing this sound? thats what I had but no hearing it anymore... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pF3BNVFjBdc

just read that after some googling but still not sure. doubt it got damaged or stolen but think the tumble generator valve is upgraded as the car was a prodrive development car for 2 years, so its got loadsa trick bits I dont know/understand so a bit skeptical taking it to a regular garage after having 90,000 miles subaru stamped service/care. but the price for subaru is a joke (especially as the car is only worth £4000 now) compared to buying the service manual and paying a local £20 an hour for jobs I cant do myself.

Hey I've got Pocket Dyno (the lite free version) Its a bit of fun but think thats about it. I set it up for my 2001 uk 300. Inputted weight etc into the stats. But havent tested it on my uk300 yet. but showed my dad the other day when i was in his GB270 so we gave it a blast at a cross roads emulating a quarter mile drag from standing. With the input figures being for a 2L not a 2.5L (such as the gb270) the accuracy of the results is okay. It estimated 314 WHP 0-60 = 4.1 sec and 0-100=7.64 sec anyone else used this of the full version? and is there any other cool petrol head apps out there????

Ive got a 2001 impreza and when I bought it I was told it had a Tumble Valve Generator fitted, From what I can tell it gives a similar sound to a dump valve but not the same. If you listen to a subaru WRC car of the time it sounds the same under gear shifting and when the throttle is let off after being on full. The thing is the car went into a local garage to have the turbo feed pipe replaced as it cracked and since then (maybe a moth ago) I haven't heard the slipping/woosh sound at all. I don't really understand what this valve does and maybe it was damaged or worse stolen when the work was being done. If any of you know more than me it would be appreciated if you could say what u think before I call the garage and ask any questions... Thanks peoples.

Nice one mate, Godspeed looks like the guys for me to talk to. wasnt looking to spend quite that much but think they would be worth it, for looks and performance as my scoob is uk300 spec but the rear stoppers are lame! want to feel like ive got a small parachute attached to the back bumper that opens on demand with the brake pedal!

Hey folks, I have a 2001 bugeye, and at the petrol station I noticed a newer impreza sti about 2004 with nice sized rear discs with what looked like the same standard subaru caliper (except i think it was red) did this years car have bigger rear discs as standard on the sti?. Are there any brackets/mounts about to fit bigger discs and has anyone done something similar (if so how much did it cost ya?) I hope if i do this mod i will get more even breaking and less wear on my lovely Alcon 330mm discs n pads.

dunno dude but she's lovely looking still, sure they could have made it.

what do u think, should they have made this instead of the new model?

Howdy folks I'm looking for a GB270 front bumper. Whats the best place in the uk? its all about price, as I pranged my dads 270 so want a second hand one but are there any around new anyways? is the bumper standard with the metal grille extras switchable? Cheers Jamie

Unit 16 John Baker Close Llantarnam Industrial Estate Cwmbran NP44 3AX cheers dude

Decided to go for the Exedy clutch kit on ebay for £160 mark. looks good to me. only thing now is fitting I normally have a specialist who i know 60miles away do the work but he takes his time but does the BEST job as he prepares rally/track cars for a living and does mine in between spare time and kids. so thinking for the clutch may as well let the local grease monkeys do it, as its either done right or wrong (I hope) so what price u guys paid before to have full clutch kit fitted (not just a new plate) thanks again and go Marcus next weekend (rally portugal in prodrive prepared impreza)

Point is. Anything with the Vauxhall badge on it to me is CRAP so why polish a turd. I mean there are plenty of "fast" vauxhalls out there and if i was less fortunate with my savings maybe I would be an Astra driver. But please the generic vauxhall driver is middle aged, fat and balding. The classic looser driver who sits on your ass on the motor-way after you overtake them sitting in the middle lane on an empty road (as they think they drive the millennium falcon) I love driving fast, but value my license too much and don't get any sorta rush as i do hammering windy A road's like I have in south-mid wales. So i just let these guys in vauxhalls "loose me" on the straights/motor way as they gotta have their fun... and loose their license's If u want a fast and controllable vauxhall priced car just get a slightly older BMW such as the E36 318is or M3. fast, fun and driftable! I get plenty of challenges from "wolves dressed as sheep" but I guess to them they wanna prove their piece of sh*t is better than a nice scooby like my uk300 (not really trying to offend just u vauxhall drivers are my kryptonite and i know if i follow your silly lead i'll be in big trouble just seeing who will risk the most with minimal skill involved)

no worries dude, They should be about £380 if u go for the full treatment drive in and drive out. That also includes a wax treatment at the end for protection. That seemed a little steep to me so I managed to get the guy down to £275 and bought two new Avon ZZ3's tires on ebay and had them fitted which balanced the cost down further as the fronts were getting illegal. The prices vary with wheel size so some of you guys may be able to get them at a lower price for 17".

hey folks just had the rims done. Got the classic OZ gold 18's. After 9 british winters and prodrive/alcon 330mm discs spitting foul dust all over, the wheels were looking very sorry especially on the inner band and spoke edges on the outer part of the wheel. So did a bit of googling and research and decided to go for a full chemical strip, shot blast, powder coat and lacquer at "the wheel specialist" who had fortunately just opened a new store in Cwmbran South Wales (called the cardiff store) Was well impressed with the service. wanted a fairly close match to the original gold to keep the centre caps from standard, save loosing the logo's. Being a powder coat vs paint has advantages and disadvantages, on the plus its a more durable layer of protection for the whole wheel but paints advantages are that they could be matched perfectly with the original finish including the slight metallic effect that existed originally. but the reason i wanted the wheels done was to have a fresh "new" look close to standard/original look, durable and super easy to clean. check out the pics.. (note the slight band of brake dust on this picture is from driving home and not in the paint)