2087

Right folks, As most of you may be aware, I am selling my scooby. I understand that due to the credit crunch and all that jazz, that this is possibly not the best time to be selling my pride and joy. So, that bourne in mind, I have an idea. My idea, I am looking for a price in the region of £3000. This, when devided by 15, equals 200. So, I am thinking of raffling my car. £15 a ticket, 200 tickets, one lucky swine that gets my scoob for £15. Obviously there are rules etc, such as I would not hold the raffle until I had enough to cover a price I was happy with and I would hold the draw, if it went ahead, under some sort of adjudication. What I need is some ideas, Is this a good idea? I think it is quite a good plan, given the current financial climate. Just need to know if I could get 200 tickets shifted. Ideas?

for some reason my central locking seems to be possessed! as I am driving along, or jacking the car up, it seems to just randomly lock and unlock. I have had a look at the driver side door but cant see any loose wiring etc. this is murdering my battery and pissin me off as all the doors seem to be locked most of the time. any suggestions?

Just got my 4 pots off Willie25, lookin good on my 93 JDM. Was furious when I fitted them though, bloody wheels fitted no worries, but wouldnt turn!! The curve on the alloy was jamming against the caliper! FUME!! So after a 40 mile round trip to collect the calipers, I had to go on another 40 miles round trip to get 5mm spacers. They on now and lookin sweet. Shame I cant take it for a test burn, no bloody battery power! grr!

pics added

bloody brake pads came today, got the back ones on no problems at all. then the front...... the inside pad doesnt want to go on and the outside one, although goes on no problems, seems about 3mm too wide for the caliper! grrr could the caliper issue be that I have not yet depressed the pistons fully? any suggestions lol? Oh, 1993 classic GC8 btw, standard calipers. Pic of caliper closed Pic of caliper open Pistons both flush This is the confusing bit. Does this slide or does the bolt next to the painter part of caliper uncsrew. If it slides its seized, but going by the look of it, doesnt look like it would slide, suggestions? The last pic, the small bit of metal on the left at the very end has a small 3 mil dia rubber thing in it, does this need taken out etc?

ITS ALIVE!!! A quick fit of the crank sensor, badda bing, badda boom, engine started! more than happy, little bit more power due to the 98 engine as apposed to the 93, slightly more torque as i lost my AC system. Really dont feel like sellin it no more lol.

fuel not drained, and its the same optimax that was in it before (101 a litre stuff ) I will crank it til the pressure light goes, cant wait for the posty! feel like a little kid lol

roger! the crank angle sensor that was SUPPOSED to be delivered today should be here am tomorrow. (next day delivery my a***) so hopefully tomorrow

no fuel been in the system for about 6 months. Been advised i should crank the engine with the spark plugs disconnected (to allow fuel to get through the injectors and into the system) then re apply the sparks to get a light. this good advice or rubbish? Can i just reconnect the lot n it will eventually feed fuel through after a few 20-30 second bursts?

crank angle sensor on the way from API Warwickshire, nippy at 70 quid (bloody early version ones, hens teeth n all that), but worth it none the less. Should be coming tomorrow, so here is hoping that tomorrow I will be able to post a sound file of the beast put putting away, unless another loving problem presents itself.

been told that spark plugs can 'die' is this right? if so I may need to renew them, Oh, aye I need a crank sensor, wont be running it for any length of time, simply a 30 second run to see if its starting, crank will be en route soon as im paid lol

came out today, left the condenser in for now, will discuss taking it out with next buyer.

After 4 and a half hours of tearing my hair out today, I completed my build up. I think everything is in correct places(:S) , only problem being the beast wont start, starter motor is turning but its not firing up. Fuel filter is going all cold which would suggest fuel is getting into it, so I am a bit scoobied (excuse the pun). Might be something to do with the fact its been idle for 6-7 months with no engine in it, but will keep you all updated. G (meanwhile any suggestions to fix are more than welcome!)

Do you need to install any kind of pulley? or is it simply a case of disconnecting the pump and removing the belt? Had to buy a new pulley etc in my GT4, so thought best to ask? Cheers

have emailed Dave at API re these issues also, any input from anyone much appreciated . I'll summarise basically what I'm after, 1> Where knock links get bolted to (pics if poss) 2> Clarification on what this bottom 2 pics is 3> Any pics of the cam breather setup on anyones car (including that offending pipe in pic 1) Cheers

Is this that PCV thing u meant? this is the thing i was looking at cheers

cool dude, any pics of knock link etc done up (one of mine is aftermarket so wil need suggestions non a second mounting point) and I think I remember the thing you mean now, bit slim metal pipe that rounds off at the end, and goes diagonally backward starting at the left? Cheers

cool, where the knock links go? just bolted anywhere onto the block? or somewhere in particular? the water cross-over pipe? any chance of a pic? oh the y shape thing be the plastic rig that connects the cam breathers? one last thing is i found what looks like a valve under the main air intake in the inlet manifold. directly below the2-3 inch diameter hold with the throttle valve inside, is this ti be left alone or linked up to something? cheers.

Pictures as promised This is the one at the rear of the small water tank thing This is the oil feed that leads to the No3 area This be the sensor style thing on the camshaft/crankshaft sensor loom This is a buit random, the car has an aftermarket knock link, any ideas where it would connect if its this one? Cheers

Well the inevitable has happened, we put the engine back together an put all the lovely bits back on, all that is left to go on is the air box and intercooler (and all piping in between) However, we seem to have 2 spare pipe bits, one on the top of the block itself, an oil feeder that i'm sure leads to the no3 area of the engine, Seem to have run out of pipes to use, so am a bit confused lol. any ideas? And the second is at the read of the water tank (one located right next to the p/s pump etc), seem to have no pipe for this either. I also cant remember where a sensor style thing gets bolted on, its on the same loom as the cam sensor and crank sensor (of which I need a new one, if u got, lemme know), ideas? I have pics of all this, but having bother uploading them, will do so asap though. Oh, my co 'wannabe' mechanic has asked that if anyone has or knows of a coolant pipe guide/diagram and an oil flow diagram, can you point us toward it? Just so we know 100% that its all connected up correctly, I really wanna hear the nice purr of this car again, and its extremley irritating that I know I am so close now, just a few small things left to do. Cheers

anyone got a simple guide to re-connecting the wiring loom? I got the one on the 93-98 manual, but its far from what I would describe as simple lol! cheers

Folks, I'm in process of reassembling the engine. The 2 bolts that hold the hydraulic nipple bit on, that puch the clutch fork, seem to have........erm............dissapeared? Cant find em anywhere, can anyone tell me what size I need? so I can get a replacement. Cheers

Right folks, I have decided at long last to drop a new engine in my scoob, Buyin it 2nd hand from API. Its comin as a full engine then I add ancillaries. But, I have to get the beast into the engine bay, I managed to lift the short block out on my tod, but i think the full engine will be a dam sight heavier and bulkier and I dont fancy a hernia at 23. Any person or persons with an engine crane I could borrow for a day, maybe 2? I live in Arbroath but work in Dundee so if anyone knows has access and willing to let me borrow , let me know Cheers

I would love to keep it, really would, but I have since had to buy a second car for work etc, and the money for repairing the wrx is coming from my wedding fund ( ) so will need to replace it. I will be in the market for another high powered motor once the wedding is out of the way. who knows what though lol. By the by, Just priced new V1 EJ20K crank + ACL main/Bigend bearings, totaly £612 off RCM. not too bad takin no fitting fee. Do I need anything else for a rebuild? anything I am missing that will delay the rebuild? oh! nearly forgot, the 14mm service holes for taking the piston circlips out, there is one behind the flywheel, that is covered by some daft little wine gum style metal cover + 2 phillips screws. i'll be damned if I can get the bugger off and the screw heads are nearly stripping. Any suggestions? lol

emoe savin my day again. thats cool. I been weighing up my options fella, and to be honest a new engine for 750-800 and sell for 2000-2200 ot a 600 crank and bearing set then sell with orig engine with full rebuild (providing we get it together working) and sell it for 3k or so. Since we already put blood, swear and tears into splittin it down, I think i would much prefer to finish the job, throw a new crank in, complete the rebuild and see the job finished (mind you, by the time that is least the credit crunch probably be over! lol) G