russ b

It sucks really, I bet my old R5GTT kick out more CO's than the scooby & its way cheeper to tax, makes no sence.

My Hawkeye was Dec 05 - boy do I feel lucky.lol

Blimey, sounds like you had fun. Not. How much was the pump without labour? It only takes 10mins to change, the solenoinds are another story though, 1 is under the intercooler & is easy to change but the other is under the inlet manifold & is a rather more difficult. So potentially, models with the aux air pump could be looking at expensive repairs now then. £700+ for the pump & £400 + labour for the 2 solenoids. Now I understand why spme people junk the whole setup & fit blanking plates.lol. What effect does this have thouh? The wierd thing with mine is that after the dealers looked at it, then reset the CEL it hasn't come back on since. The car also feels smoother on part throttle than it ever has before, bearing in mind I've had it 6yrs, so no how it feels. I no the std map on the WRX2.5 with fbw throttle is not the best @ 20-30% throttle & its something I've just got used to, but...... since the dealers have had it, it runs smoother than it ever has on part throttle! Could they have reflashed with an update or something? They told me they did nothing other than diagnostics & reset, whiich they didn't charge me for by the way. So when does the pump that failed actually work? Mine seems to only turn on when cold after 45-60 seconds of running. Then blows for a couple of seconds. Does it blow slow, the fast or is it only fast? If it smoked does that mean it siezed then, surely, there should be a fuse to protect things in the event of a fault? Does anyone no how the aux air pump system actually works ie, what supposed to happen & when? I've also found The reason my software (ecu Exp) didnt list P1410 is because it not listed on there as existing, so I'm guessing that its for models before the 2.5? The solenoids/pump appear to be becoming a potential problem as I've read about it on other forms as well. What the betting Subaru will deny there is an issue when then should actually be helping with the cost in some way (just like the VW Golf Mk5 (& other models) abs pumps for example, loads of then are going since the warrentys have ended & VW have been subsidising the replacements that I no of.

Yeah its strange, other people I have spoken to seem to have good results with the cable I have,but heyho, the dealers seam to no what my fault is. I expect its going to be expensive...such is life.lol. Thanks for your input matey

It was a blue Vagcom cable, connects up fine & can read all the ecu perameters & data log ok, just doesn't seam to list my fault even with the cel illuminated. The fault that subaru diagnosed seems to make sence as the air pump is only in use when started from cold.

Took the car in for its MOT & asked them to check for fault codes. They came up with P1410 Air combi valve open/siezed. They reset the ECU & road tested it & said it seemed to be OK now but would require further investigation if it comes on again. I expect it to come back on in the morning tbh. I've done a little investigating & it appears this is an issue with the secondary air pump valves rusting & then sticking, one is under the intercooler & easy to get to & the other one needs the intake manifold removing. Mositure gets in & causes he valve to rust & then sieze so sounds like crap materials are used in the valve. I no some people have removed the aux pump altogether but I want to keep things stock so it looks like I'll have to book it in for "further investigation". Anyone else had this issue & can give me a rough inication of cost? It sounds quite expensive. What I don't no is why ecu explorer could not pick this up.

Yeah I've rad that, hence I downloaded ECUExplorer. Just been out to start her up & the CEL came on after 30s-1m. Plugged the laptop in, fired up ECUE & its saying there are no fault codes listed. It only seems to come on after its been left over night. WhatI don't understand is why there is no codes listed but the CEL is on.

Got my OBD2 lead today, so I connected up the laptop & used ECUExplorer as I was told that ROMRaider doesn't have fault codes listed (?) Its connecting ok & seems to work, but its not showing up any current or historic fault codes. Anyone now why this is? There's tables for OBD2 & subaru specific, but it appears to be saying I have no fault which can't be right. Am Idoing something wrong?.

Thanks for the reply Tony. No, not had a decat on anything. The car is standard other than a prodrive backbox, not remapped or anything. My first thoughts were a lambda sensor, boost control solenoid, aux air pump system? It could just be a coincidence that it was serviced, but I'm not ruling it out.lol. I'll wait to get my cable early next week & then see if I can get the laptop hooked up (that will be fun) If I can find out what it is & I can sort it myself I will, if not it will be a trip to the dealers. I bought the car from Haddocks in Ardleigh & they have looked after it eversince so they do no the car & I haven't had any complaints about their work so far. I'll try to reset it again over the weekend & see what happens, as I said it seems to be running ok. Here's a pic of the old girl

Hi people, just a quicky someone may be able to help with. The CEL came on the other day first thing in the morning. I started up, (let it idle for a minute as usual) then after 100M or so the CEL came on. I carried on my merry way to work, but took it easy. It seems to be running ok even though the CEL is on. So, when I got home I had a gander under the bonnet (not sure why, but seemed the right thing to do.lol) Decided to disconnect the battery for half hour or so, & left the ignition on/pushed brake etc (don't no if this actually works as I have read its only on classics?) Then did the 5 start up switch off & the CEL was gone. Well this morning its come on again. I have downloaded Romraider (I won't be playing with maps, its purely to use as diagnostics) & ordered an appropriate lead so can hopefully read the fault before I take it into the stealers. I only had it serviced last week (was the 6yr service) so could be sods law or could be something they have disturbed when carrying out the service. I've had it for 5yrs now & its done 46K & all that has gone wrong is a headlight bulb, so can't complain really. Any advice/things/previous experiances while I wait for my lead to get here (2-3days)would be great Thanks in advance Russ

Is the above the case with a standard (other than prodrive b/box) MY06 2.5 WRX? It says 95 only on the fuel filler door & thats all Ive run it on for the last 4 years & 33K miles.

Yep I get your point. I think your right that a drive through can be appealed against there & then. I believe that the drive through must also be taken within 3 laps of the issued penalty, so I suppose they get that time to do it in..... not long then on a short lap. I believe the time instead of drivethrough or stop & go 3 laps from the end was brought in due to Shumy. Cant remember where the race was, but it must have been 05-06, he took his stop & go penalty at the end of the race, on the last lap he just pulled into his pit didn't he? Anyway at least the rules have been clarified with regards to gaining an advantage due to cutting the track & not being able to pass until 2 corners later, so at least thats something. If Hamilton had waited 1 corner later then he would have been ok.

Fairly sure they can't issue a drive through penalty that close to the end of the race. I bevieve that if an infringement that requires a pit lane drive through is given within 3 laps from the end of the race (could be 5 though, I cant remember) they issue a time penalty equivalent to a drive through, in this case 25 seconds.

Many thanks for the replys I'll phone around & see what is the best route for me to take. In truth, I shall probably be fitting whatever I buy myself. I've downloaded a workshop manual from an american site in pdf format that covers my model (its actualy a US market version but its near enough) but the only section I can't get to work is the brake section . I assume the standard 4 pots on the Hawkeye WRX are the same as on the Blob & Bug? If so, has anyone got a pdf or similar with the relavent how to info? Also do I need to buy a shim kit from the dealers when fitting new pads? Thanks in advance

Hi guys & gals My car went in for its 30K/3rd service on tuesday (its actually only done 17K miles). I had noticed that the front pads were getting low, I suppose there down to 5mm ish & I sometimes get a little bit if squeeking from the front offside when braking lightly. So I asked the dealers to check the brakes (although I expect they would have done this during the service anyway). When I picked the car up they said I had 2-3K miles left on the front pads & then thay would need replacing. They also stated that the discs would need to be skimmed as well. There is a small lip on the edge, say 0.5mm ish, but I didn't think people skimmed discs these days. So I said "ok, so how much is this going to cost me?" They phoned me back the next day & said the price would me £224 inc vat. So my question to you guys & girls is should I just let them do it or should I source some uprated discs, say grooved & some pads & do the job myself? Would I need any sort of fitting kit for the pads (shims etc) & what brand would you all recommend? I don't do track days but I would like to uprate from standard as they're not that good tbh. Any help would be greatly appreciated.