can you change a clutch

[bigdavie]

on the deck ?? or do i need to get it up on a two poster ??

 

oh and i really dont wanna have to pull the engine out !!

 

cheers folks

[scoobymadburd]

Wullie says the box is rather heavy for one and it could be difficult on the deck. Give wullie a phone he will give u some advice, m8

 

Claire

[tosh 32]

yes i  just slide the box back and i dont remove it have in and out in 6 hours

[johnnyr6]

You can do it, just try to get the car as high as possible. You'll no doubt need an extra pair of hands when your removing and reinstalling the box as it's heavy. Just make sure you line the clutch up correctly.

[WUZ]

1 man job.................longest I've needed is 6 hours. Box out job that is!

Russell

[bigdavie]

cheers for the reply's  peeps !!

 

claire i might just do that hen ! cheers !

[bigdavie]

wuz do i need to remove the box fully from the car ? or can i leave it on a jack ?

also are the shafts plug in or bolt in ??

 sorry for the ignorance but ive never been under the scoob in the 2 years ive owned her !!

 

and also as im quite a big fella how heavy is the box ?? 60 kg + ?? otherwise its easy enough !

 

ta muchly

[WUZ]

You need to move it back and down to be able to get in about to remove the Clutch and Flywheel (failing to change out the flywheel for an exchange one from AWD is FOOLISH!, seeing as the box is off.) but it can stay on the jack

The Driveshafts are kept in place on the Gearbox splines by a dowel pin that runs right through the Driveshaft body about 1" from where it meets the gearbox. Tap these right out to be able to remove the driveshaft. There isn't enough room to remove the Driveshaft in situ, so once you have splitted it from the Engine, move the box back about 5" and you'll have the room to remove the Driveshafts one at a time.

I'll assume you know that you need to remove the Propshaft, linkage, etc?

Russell

[Kenny.S]

You probably could do it with the box still sort of in position but i think it would just make things harder imho, best just to take it out.

I'm no expert but ill do my best, this is how i did mine recently, others may have slightly different methods and i dont know how much you already know so appologies i've i'm telling you things you already know

Do all the bits under the bonnet first:

Disconnect the battery

Remove tmic if you have one,

Remove starter,

Remove clutch slave cylinder but dont undo the line just unbolt it from the g/box and tie out the way

Remove g/box stabiliser and bracket

Remove speedo cable or pickup

Disconnect any other wiring

Undo the bolts you can holding the downpipe to the turbo, best do this from completely cold as there is a better chance of the bolts coming off.

Remove plug from N/S of g/box using 10mm allen key, pull clutch pivot pin out using 6mm bolt, this will allow the clutch fork to go loose and be disengaged from the release bearing.

Slacken off the top bellhousing bolts but leave in place for now, i put the long starter one back in loose.

Slacken front wheels

 

Get the car up on 4 axle stands, 16" or so should be enough, you could do it with just the front of the car on stands but at some point you'll need to lift the back wheels off the ground so that you can turn the prop shaft. You dont need to do it strictly in this order but you'll get the jist of it

Remove downpipe

Drain oil from g/box other wise it'll leak out when you remove the prop.

Remove front wheels

Remove anti roll bar drop links

Remove roll pins from inner cv joint using a flat ended punch think it's about 4 or 5mm, just make sure the punch doesnt go up the inside of the roll pin or you'll get it stuck! They should tap out relatively easily.

Remove split pin from bottom ball joint, undo 19mm nut, depending on when they where last removed you might need to give the wishbone a chap with a hammer round the area where the tapered part of the ball joint goes through it, push down on the wishbone to free it from the ball joint, hope that makes sense [:^)] Do this on both sides

You should now be able to free the shafts from the g/box

Undo the nuts from the centre of the propshaft, note: you must undo the nuts dont try to undo the bolts as they cannot turn, the head of the bolt is upagainst a flat on the propshaft. Remove propshaft, you may still get a little dribble of oil so have a wrag handy.

Disconnect / remove gearlinkage

Remove the x2 10mm studs from the bottom of the bellhousing by double nutting them, if you have a 754 g/box and a phase 2 engine you'll have another 4 bolts to remove

Slacken bolts on g/box subframe

Support g/box with a suitable jack

You might want to get an extra pair of hands for this bit but it is do-able on your own, remove subframe and take weight of g/box on the jack

Split the g/box from the engine, (easier said than done) once your satisfied that its free, fully remove the remaining bolts from the top of the bellhousing, i just do this so it cant fall when your not expecting it, especially if your on your own.

Wrestle, shout, swear until gearbox is off [] note; the engine will want to tip forward slightly when the g/box is off, if your engine mounts are in good shape it wont move too far but you may still want to support it, ie tie it back against the bulkhead.

The box weighs about 59kgs 

Hope thats of some use to you, 

 Cheers

 Kenny

edit: in the time i took me to write that lot i didnt realise you'd replied Wuz []  Wasn't aware that you could get the shafts off with the wishbones still in place?

[WUZ]

[O][]

Russell

[bigdavie]

fantastic guy's !!

 

many thank's ![]