dougieboy Posted January 18, 2012 Posted January 18, 2012 Thats me booked into andy forrest in a couple of weeks for a remap can't wait, Im in the middle of changing my exhaust for a full de-cat just waiting for the down pipe to come tomorrow so in the mean time can someone tell me where and how easy it is to change the fuel pump on the hawkeye.
badbaz Posted January 18, 2012 Posted January 18, 2012 Not too hard Dougie, it's just behind the rear seat back, O/S in the boot. Remove the panel from the boot floor and then the full pump/float assembly from the tank. Change the pump (this isn't always a straight swap). Then worry your little socks off that there are bare electrical wires in your fuel tank!!! Refit in reverse, be careful that float isn't bent or stuck in any way. Turn the key and.......... run like fuk. Just in case
dougieboy Posted January 18, 2012 Author Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks baz im going to kak myself doing this.
spect Posted January 18, 2012 Posted January 18, 2012 The rear seat backs can make it interesting if you are ham fisted, lol. Walbros are quite long so as above just be careful you do not bend anything as you put it in.
dougieboy Posted January 18, 2012 Author Posted January 18, 2012 The rear seat backs can make it interesting if you are ham fisted, lol. Walbros are quite long so as above just be careful you do not bend anything as you put it in. cheers mate looks like i will have to give it a go at the weekend.
brianm Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 The pump is easier to do with the rear seats out iirc, it's only a few bolts to get them out anyway. LOL @ baz, been there, done that, we pushed Lewis' car out of his employers workshop before starting it 'just incase'
paul555sti Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 Are you not ment to open the fuel filler cap when do this?
badbaz Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 LOL @ baz, been there, done that, we pushed Lewis' car out of his employers workshop before starting it 'just incase' I am not alone
paul555sti Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 Why? I thought i had read somewhere that it released any pressure build up before taking the pump out?
spect Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) oh, that is for brake systems really, but no probs doing it for fuel as well though. I reckon if your fuel tank was pressurised you might have a problem, lol. Edited January 20, 2012 by spect
kennyuk300 Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 oh, that is for brake systems really, but no probs doing it for fuel as well though. I reckon if your fuel tank was pressurised you might have a problem, lol. You take the fuel filler cap of for your brake system
kennyuk300 Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 I thought i had read somewhere that it released any pressure build up before taking the pump out? Paul you are right ,there was a write up somewhere ( will look for it ) stating that it was best to leave the car overnight or at least a few hours ,and to open said cap to release the slight preasure built up in tank ,i'm sure there was a mention of taking out the fuse/relay for pump too ?????
badbaz Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 No need remove the brake cap, it's vented. You could remove the cap on the tank to release pressure - the Scoob does build some, but as you unscrewed the sender unit it would release slowly anyway. Always do this job in a well ventilated area. Best to put any fags out too. No need to remove the fuses or relays Kenny, keys out would suffice. Petrol's bloody dangerous. Still don't like working with petrol
spect Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 You take the fuel filler cap of for your brake system oops that did not really come out right did it? lol
spect Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 What I meant was that you do not really need to vent the fuel cap, but I thought you might have been muddling it all up with replacing the brake pads blah blah blah - anyway I know what I mean.
paul555sti Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 What I meant was that you do not really need to vent the fuel cap, but I thought you might have been muddling it all up with replacing the brake pads blah blah blah - anyway I know what I mean. No harm done! I am a complete muppet when it comes to cars! I wish i had a decent size garage to have a playabout on my classic and i would have a go at a bit more stuff.
kennyuk300 Posted January 21, 2012 Posted January 21, 2012 What I meant was that you do not really need to vent the fuel cap, but I thought you might have been muddling it all up with replacing the brake pads blah blah blah - anyway I know what I mean. I thought that ,but i could not resist
kennyuk300 Posted January 21, 2012 Posted January 21, 2012 No need remove the brake cap, it's vented. You could remove the cap on the tank to release pressure - the Scoob does build some, but as you unscrewed the sender unit it would release slowly anyway. Always do this job in a well ventilated area. Best to put any fags out too. No need to remove the fuses or relays Kenny, keys out would suffice. Petrol's bloody dangerous. Still don't like working with petrol Ehhh,how do i get the boot/tank out of the car
kennyuk300 Posted January 21, 2012 Posted January 21, 2012 hehehe this is becoming non-helpful now Awww ,i was all primed and pumped up ready for more . Tanks for telling us off
kennyuk300 Posted January 21, 2012 Posted January 21, 2012 Thanks for all the advice guys. Leave the car over night ,fuel cap off ,back seat out ,cover off ,hoses off unbolt sender unit pull out and replace pump ... If you are swapping to a Walbro use the original sock ( looks like a big tea bag ) as the Walbro one is smaller and does not reach down as far into tank ... Be careful when putting the unit back so as not to foul it ... Kenny
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