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Jdm Sti Track Car


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Posted (edited)

Thanks Peter. It was one of the reasons for going with AET, they're supposed to have a good reputation. They're a very popular turbo with EVO's too and are used for a number of Time Attack builds.

I think if they had come back with a - "really, really sorry, don't know how it got through our quality control checks, blah, blah, blah" I could start to accept that, and put it down as a bad one off.

But to reply, it was a material supplier fault. Why try and treat customers as if they're stupid.

Anyway, now I've had it checked out and welded properly; all is well, and I'm happy with it.

Dunk, as you well know yourself, all these different turbos choices begin to become a bit of a minefield.

A few people have asked me this question now, so here goes in a bit more detail.

Bearing in mind that by using the engine I had and keeping the standard JDM gearbox, reliabilty was to be a top priority, so I'd set a limit of about 450bhp.

I also wanted to see what was possible for a sensible amount of money, and show other owners that these builds don't need to cost a fortune.

So that ruled out the need for a rotated turbo. I also ruled out the FP series after a bit of research and speaking to someone that had used one. I also ruled out the 20g, by wanting a bit more power.

The MD 321 H/T is a debate that goes on and on. The summary seems to be is that the T is better for a stroker or 2.5, but can be a bit laggy on a stock 2.0. However a 2.0 with the variable timing of a new-age can make it work ok, and as I would be doing plenty of track days top end power was more important. So a T was a definate option.

The H, I'd say is more for pure road use.

I don't know the exact spec of this AET Turbo. I think all turbo suppliers like to have their little secrets regarding spec. But Grant at AWD says it will hit my target nicely.

But this one spools up from about 3500rpm, so probably similar to what a T would do.

Couple of other reasons for AET was their reputation, and the price Grant was doing for me.

I'll get proper figures on it's performance when the final mapping is done and also a better idea of spool up.

Edited by DR Motosport
Posted

Dave...keep us informed about the performance of the turbo as there are loads on here that will be reading with interest.

Jimser had a T on his JDM STI 7 and i thought that spool up real good for a big turbo on a 2 litre.

Posted

My MD321T gets mapped tomorrow so we'll see how it goes on my 2.0 with variable cams.

It's interesting reading this thread about your mods when I've got a similar thing on the go. Keep up the good work.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

A wee bit more of an update to the last couple of months.

Starting to use the car again after doing this work, I’d started to notice a long brake pedal. But press it once and it was back to normal until you came to press it again and it would go ¾ down. I knew the pads and discs were reasonably new, but the normal cause of pad knock-off is a wheel bearing.

I wasn’t getting any strange noises, but when I took the drivers wheel off, there was a bit of play. So a new wheel bearing from Subaru, (I didn’t want to use a cheap copy for a track car), and off with the hub. Luckily I’ve got access to a hydraulic press and used it to remove the old bearing. The bearing itself wasn’t that bad, but the hub flange was really badly worn and 0.5mm under size. So with the new bearing pressed back into the hub, then the replacement hub flange into the bearing, and I was back up and running, and with no brake pedal issues either.

I did at this point get a bit of good fortune though.

While I was waiting on the replacement hub arriving, I got a call from my mate who was at a Subaru breakers in Motherwell that was breaking a low mileage new-age STi.

Did I want a complete front corner from the STi?

No brakes; but complete hub, driveshaft, strut, spring, top mount, and ABS sensor. All for £35.

TAKE IT, and does he have the other side too. YES………. Well I’ll take that as well.

Worn hub - still with half the old bearing on it.

WornHubFlange.jpg

Posted

I’d known for a while that my radiator was on it’s last legs. The ends had bowed out by over an inch, and it was only a matter of time before it blew apart. I had been on the lookout for a larger capacity alloy radiator, but trying to get one for a bug-eye (and at a reasonable price) wasn’t easy. Getting one for a classic or a blob-eye was no problem, but for some reason the bug-eyes were different and few companies make them.

Oldradiator-1.jpg

NewRadiator.jpg

Then just after New Year, I was driving the car a few miles from home, when suddenly it blew. Steam everywhere. Got it back to the garage and removed the radiator, replacing it with a new standard one. At the same time I replaced the top and bottom hoses with Samco’s. Job done………….or so I thought.

Next day a few miles down the road, again steam everywhere. At first I thought it was just the coolant that had been sprayed everywhere, but back up on the ramps and I noticed coolant running down the back of the block. Then looking between the intake manifold I could see coolant all over the top of it on the drivers side. Nothing else for it, the manifold had to come off. So it wasn't the radiator after all, but it still needed changed.

A couple of hours later, and half the engine bay removed it was off. I then removed the cross over water pipes and found the cause. The “O” ring seal was perished and had been spraying coolant over the top of the block. Two new O-rings later – I changed the passenger side at the same time, then a couple of hours to put it all back together, and the water leak was fixed. All that work for 2 seals costing less than £1.

Manifold-3.jpg

Posted

Before the white car was sold a few bits and pieces were removed. One item was the Knocklink. But trying to fit it somewhere suitable on the WRX wasn’t easy. It’s an ugly big plastic box, and it ended up replacing an air vent.

I was looking for a better place for this car, and after a great idea from the SIDC forum, it’s now fitted inside the instrument binnacle.

I cut the box down by about 5mm in height so the led lights would protrude more, then drilled 5 tiny holes in the instrument surround, just enough for the led’s to pop through, with the box hidden away behind it. Perfect and a lot neater.

DashKnocklink.jpg

Another item from the WRX was the smaller lightweight battery.

Just now it’s still in the original battery position, but it may be moved to the rear at a later date. The main benefit of this battery is the weight saving. It’s 10kg lighter than the normal battery, and that weight is removed from the very front of the car.

PowervampBattery-1.jpg

Posted

Looking good dave!

Is that colin over in Motherwell breaking the Scoob< if so, hes a good guy and good prices. Where did you get the battery? needing a new one for mine, but need one that will be able to be left for a few days without losing its charge?

Ricey

Posted
Looking good dave!

Is that colin over in Motherwell breaking the Scoob< if so, hes a good guy and good prices. Where did you get the battery? needing a new one for mine, but need one that will be able to be left for a few days without losing its charge?

Ricey

Hi Paul,

No it was Kevin at KRTuning. I don't know him, but my mate stays close by.

Colin Dickson??? Not seen him for a couple of years since he left XS, but I now have a number for his new business. Need to pop in some time. Do you have an address?

Battery came from last years Autosport Show. It was about £80.

It was in the white track car, and sometimes that was only started once a week with no problems. I did buy one of those Sealey solar trickle chargers, but haven't used it yet.

Been good over the cold weather too, starting first time.

Davy

Posted
Dave...keep us informed about the performance of the turbo as there are loads on here that will be reading with interest.

Jimser had a T on his JDM STI 7 and i thought that spool up real good for a big turbo on a 2 litre.

Hi Peter,

It's been a couple of months now since the turbo was fitted, and apart from the initial wastegate problem, I'm very happy with it.

As an instant hit and planting the accelerator in say 5th gear, it hits full boost at 3600 RPM.

From a standing start through the gears, it's about 3800 RPM for full boost.

I was actually speaking to Graeme from Whiteline last month, and he had the same/similar AET turbo on his car, but he was really disappointed with it.

He wasn't hitting full boost until over 5500 RPM. But i think there's maybe been other factors involved in that.

Certainly when Andy was at AWD, he told me this was one of AET's latest versions of that turbo, so maybe it's that too.

But hoping to get the time soon, to get back to Andy Forrest with the bigger injectors for the final mapping.

Davy

Posted
Hi Peter,

It's been a couple of months now since the turbo was fitted, and apart from the initial wastegate problem, I'm very happy with it.

As an instant hit and planting the accelerator in say 5th gear, it hits full boost at 3600 RPM.

From a standing start through the gears, it's about 3800 RPM for full boost.

I was actually speaking to Graeme from Whiteline last month, and he had the same/similar AET turbo on his car, but he was really disappointed with it.

He wasn't hitting full boost until over 5500 RPM. But i think there's maybe been other factors involved in that.

Certainly when Andy was at AWD, he told me this was one of AET's latest versions of that turbo, so maybe it's that too.

But hoping to get the time soon, to get back to Andy Forrest with the bigger injectors for the final mapping.

Davy

Just out of curiosity what is the power is that turbo rated at?

Ash

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