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Blow Off Valve/dump Valve?

tucku34bt

By tucku34bt
in Scottish Scoobies

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RA Dunk

RA Dunk

Posted
Posted
hi folks. im looking to buy a dump valve for my 2001 classic. there is so many to chose from, can anybody point me in the direction of a good 1 for around 100 bucks please? cheers! :P

why dont you keep your standard one and throw 100 quid away instead :rotfl:

putting it mildly dont waste your money on one of these chav horns :D

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RA Dunk

RA Dunk

Posted
Posted
because then i would have nothing to show for my £100 :P

you would have a better car though ;)

theres loads of good threads on here and scoobynet (search function is your friend) with all of the pro`s and con`s of dumpvalves, the general opinion is dont bother with them :)

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tucku34bt

tucku34bt

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you would have a better car though :P

theres loads of good threads on here and scoobynet (search function is your friend) with all of the pro`s and con`s of dumpvalves, the general opinion is dont bother with them B)

ha ha, your right enough RA Dunk! :) did a search on scoobynet and on here, im thinking now the money would be better spent elsewhere! cheers bud! ;)

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RA Dunk

RA Dunk

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Posted
ha ha, your right enough RA Dunk! :) did a search on scoobynet and on here, im thinking now the money would be better spent elsewhere! cheers bud! ;)

glad to see you did the homework before parting with your hard earned bud :P

theres better places to spend your money on an impreza (handling being one of them) than throwing it at a chav horn lol :P

when you start thinking about induction kits forget those as well and get a decent panel filter B)

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tucku34bt

tucku34bt

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glad to see you did the homework before parting with your hard earned bud :P

theres better places to spend your money on an impreza (handling being one of them) than throwing it at a chav horn lol :P

when you start thinking about induction kits forget those as well and get a decent panel filter B)

ye, was a quick turn around! :)

i dont rate induction kits. ;) i have a green panel filter already

and a stainless from turbo, so fmic and a remap is next on the list. that will do me. handling is fine. that was adressed before i got the car.

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RA Dunk

RA Dunk

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Posted
ye, was a quick turn around! :P

i dont rate induction kits. :) i have a green panel filter already

and a stainless from turbo, so fmic and a remap is next on the list. that will do me. handling is fine. that was adressed before i got the car.

Coolio, so thats another hundred saved towards your remap then! ;)

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scouk

scouk

Posted
Posted (edited)

I recently stuck a GFB Stealth FX valve onto my bugeye.. Got it for much cheapness 2nd hand (To hell with the £300rrp!!) Ideally wanted a valve that was recirc and adjustable for pressure, this one fitted the bill exactly..

Opinions.. Well if you stickign one on a standard car, it's just chav and will have no benefits to the car.. If you are runnign more than standard boost i'm runnign 1.3bar peak, from std 0.9, then I would reccomend an aftermarket valve.. I know loads of people have said the standard one is fine for increased boost. I thought so too, but after fitting the GFB I disagree. I "felt" before hand that the std one was letting air past while on the higher boost.. could hear the air passing through it high boost while on throttle.. But with the GFB, set correctly, I don't get that.. infact I get a really solid wall of boost withotu fade.. Also very little drop off in boost between quick gear changes..

before there are any comments, no I don't believe it's all in my head.. had it fitted for a couple of weeks now and car generally feels better when on boost.

BTW - My bov does have "chav" settings, but it's set to recirc as it's just plain safer.. And I still get the feignt "whoosh" noise on lift off as the air is plumbed back into the intake due to the slightly wider piston..

So summarise.. if you you (or anyone reading this) wan't a VTA BOV for whooshy sounds.. Don't! Not for the fact it's considred "chav" by many but because it can actually harm you engien over time.. That whoosh sound comes from air escaping which is normally passed back into the intake as metered. The ECU carefully applies the correct level of air/fuel at any fiven time.. If you remove some of that air by VTA you get a very rich point oin lift off.. This can be a very shot time frame but it does mean a wad of fuel is shoved into the engine and can pass through unburnt and cause backfiring (which can sound cool on some cars) but most importantly some of the fuel will remain in the cylinders unburnt.. And petrol/oil don't mix very well.. Over time the unburnt fuel will start to wash out the cylinders and dramatically reduce the effect of the oil which can cause you all sorts of problems.

IF a VTA valve is fitted, make sure oil is changed regularly to keep it clean... end of of the day VTA costs more whatever way you look at it.. in saying that I've not personally heard of a engine go bang as a result of a VTA...

As mentioned above, Forge recirc seems to be the one reccomended these days.. It's safe because it plumbs the air back into the intake like hte standard valve but also larger internal piston can give you a slightly louder whoosh sound over standard of the air passing back through the pipework..

. o O (Yoiks! that reply was a bit longer than expected ;))

Edited by ScoUK
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