Good Job I Noticed This !

[fudge]

This picture is taken from under the radiator o/side. The drain plug is just out of shot in the top left corner.

Drain plug had developed a leak in the rad. I think these wires are from the Motec to a control unit ?. To be fair they were neatly placed and had further protection of a split pipe, but the jet of water escaping from the broken draining plug and melted the pipe & some of the wiring !

[scoobytibs]

bloody hell mate sorry to see that hope its not too bad

[gary may]

sorry to hear that mate not good to see chared wiring

[dazzlers82]

looks like it may have caught a light or got very hot someones got a good job of replacing all the wiring

[eurosti]

Cant see hot coolant doing that damage Skull! Im with Daz on this, something more sinister has caused that mate im afraid.

[emoe]

Skull, thats the wiring loom that caught fire on my car mate. Youre running headers arent you!!!

YOU HAVE to move the loom or it will go up in flames mate!!

[craigy]

Skull, thats the wiring loom that caught fire on my car mate. Youre running headers arent you!!!

YOU HAVE to move the loom or it will go up in flames mate!!

sounds like advice of plenty here mate, dont earn yourself flamed wings get that sorted, hope it looks worse than it really is mate

[emoe]

sounds like advice of plenty here mate, dont earn yourself flamed wings get that sorted, hope it looks worse than it really is mate

Ive spent the last three weeks having burns treatment and thinking i wasnt going to play guitar again from saving my car because that very same wiring loom set fire because of headers. It also melts the plastic drain valve, but if it gets hold of the wiring loom then it all goes pear shaped.

Luckily that wiring loom only serves the front lights, indicators fogs and fan including the ABS system

[fudge]

Cant see hot coolant doing that damage Skull! Im with Daz on this, something more sinister has caused that mate im afraid.

The jet of water was so powerful it has completely jet washed the underside of the car (o/side. It's gleaming where the n/side looks normal.

I reckon the hot jet of water cut through the plastic "split pipe" and exposed the wires. Now the jet is directly on the wires and when the plastic melted on several wires that caused a small fire. The jet of water in turn put the fire out.

Weird thing is I monitor the engine temp' - Oil temp' and Oil Pressure constantly and no signs of over heating at all. All gauges working ok.

I was real lucky.

[fudge]

Skull, thats the wiring loom that caught fire on my car mate. Youre running headers arent you!!!

YOU HAVE to move the loom or it will go up in flames mate!!

Good shout Emoe. I am speaking with Matt Clark tomorrow.

Cheers mate. Hope you & car ok.

[eurosti]

Good shout Emoe. I am speaking with Matt Clark tomorrow.

Cheers mate. Hope you & car ok.

When are RCMS moving to the new premises mate?

[fudge]

When are RCMS moving to the new premises mate?

Not sure Eurosti. I was with them 2 weeks ago but nothing was mentioned? I will ask Matt tomorrow.

[fudge]

Maybe loom can remain in current position but encased in metal tubing and heat wrap ?

That should work.

I cant believe everything is still working looking at that picture of those wires.

[craigy]

Ive spent the last three weeks having burns treatment and thinking i wasnt going to play guitar again from saving my car because that very same wiring loom set fire because of headers. It also melts the plastic drain valve, but if it gets hold of the wiring loom then it all goes pear shaped.

Luckily that wiring loom only serves the front lights, indicators fogs and fan including the ABS system

not good mate hows the healing process by the way?

I was real lucky.

that you were, on a strange note tho for people like me this makes for interesting reading, causes/fixes and what not, if that makes sense lol

[emoe]

not good mate hows the healing process by the way?

that you were, on a strange note tho for people like me this makes for interesting reading, causes/fixes and what not, if that makes sense lol

Thanks Craigy, yep, i am back on the bike, and actually started playing guitar this week. Its bit difficult as the two fingers seem to not do what i want!!

Skull, the water temp in the radiator will be at most 105 degrees. (any more than that and your rad will pop under the pressure, water expands as its boiled, and your rad cap has a pressure release system built in so before the water gets to 105 degrees, it should vent and youd see steam pouring out the bonnet!) The plastic on wiring has a nominal heat rating of 150 degrees which means that it needs to be heated to 150 before the plastic sheathing becomes soft enough to strip with pressure. Therefore there is no way the water jet could have stripped the wiring on its own. you have another heat source heating that, IE the headers are allowing heat to the wiring loom, they put off maybe 400 degrees at times and will melt the sheating allowing the water jet to strip it off.

[fudge]

Thanks Craigy, yep, i am back on the bike, and actually started playing guitar this week. Its bit difficult as the two fingers seem to not do what i want!!

Skull, the water temp in the radiator will be at most 105 degrees. (any more than that and your rad will pop under the pressure, water expands as its boiled, and your rad cap has a pressure release system built in so before the water gets to 105 degrees, it should vent and youd see steam pouring out the bonnet!) The plastic on wiring has a nominal heat rating of 150 degrees which means that it needs to be heated to 150 before the plastic sheathing becomes soft enough to strip with pressure. Therefore there is no way the water jet could have stripped the wiring on its own. you have another heat source heating that, IE the headers are allowing heat to the wiring loom, they put off maybe 400 degrees at times and will melt the sheating allowing the water jet to strip it off.

Thanks for the info Emoe. So it was the header temp that caused the melting an not the water jet from the draining plug. I'm not going to argue with your theory Emoe, your mechanical knowledge is far greater than mine.

I will let you know the outcome and wish you a speedy recovery regarding your hands mate.

Fudge

[emoe]

Thanks for the info Emoe. So it was the header temp that caused the melting an not the water jet from the draining plug. I'm not going to argue with your theory Emoe, your mechanical knowledge is far greater than mine.

I will let you know the outcome and wish you a speedy recovery regarding your hands mate.

Fudge

Thanks Fudge!!

By the way what headers are you running? Are they wrapped or do you have heat shields in place?

I measured mine (standard again) yesterday afternoon after reading this thread, using our laser temp guage (what we use to see if cats are working or not.)

My headers run 160 degrees at idle right at the bend into the up-pipe area, where you are talking about near the radiator. Now my headers are standard so they are quite a way from the bottom of the rad, and seeing as my car has already tried to take its trip to the firey pit of hell, that Loom is now moved under the front of the car.

I took the car out and gave it some beans, jumped out and did the same thing again, the temp at the header in about the same place was now over 240 degrees! but measuring the metal around it, like the bottom of the rad support, and the chassis rail, nothing was over 90 degrees.

So that leads me to think you must have some headers on there that come closer to the front cross member. IF you dont, then at some point previously, maybe with the old owner of your vehicle, there has been some sort of ehat source at that loom, maybe a fire before, and that has left the wires exposed.

Let me know what youre running, and if you need some help with location of the best place to put that loom.

[fudge]

Thanks Fudge!!

By the way what headers are you running? Are they wrapped or do you have heat shields in place?

I measured mine (standard again) yesterday afternoon after reading this thread, using our laser temp guage (what we use to see if cats are working or not.)

My headers run 160 degrees at idle right at the bend into the up-pipe area, where you are talking about near the radiator. Now my headers are standard so they are quite a way from the bottom of the rad, and seeing as my car has already tried to take its trip to the firey pit of hell, that Loom is now moved under the front of the car.

I took the car out and gave it some beans, jumped out and did the same thing again, the temp at the header in about the same place was now over 240 degrees! but measuring the metal around it, like the bottom of the rad support, and the chassis rail, nothing was over 90 degrees.

So that leads me to think you must have some headers on there that come closer to the front cross member. IF you dont, then at some point previously, maybe with the old owner of your vehicle, there has been some sort of ehat source at that loom, maybe a fire before, and that has left the wires exposed.

Let me know what youre running, and if you need some help with location of the best place to put that loom.

Many thanks Emoe. I have just gone out to measure the loom / headers nearest point and it is 35mm! (not enough). The Headers are RCM's own.

I am taking the P1 up to RCM tomorrow (on a trailer with the battery disconnected) and leaving it with Matt Clark. Will let you know the outcome.

Once again thanks for your time matey.

Fudge