bmwhere?

Nice one Ian! Should be interesting on the 'ring

OK, lets not get down to personal insults and threats! Any more and the thread gets deleted!

Why Olympus? Not much choice of lenses for Olympus SLR's other than OEM. With Canon and Nikon you can get pretty much any lens from Sigma, Tamron, Tokina and no doubt other manufacturers in addition to the OEM lenses, so there is a lot more choice. Sony and Pentax are also often supported by 3rd party manufacturers although not as widely as Canon and Nikon. Virtually no one supports Olympus bodies, so you either need adapters to support other lens mounts which compromise quality or you're stuck with a very limited selection of lenses! Another thing to remember with SLR's is that over time you are likely to buy more lenses and accessories, so if at any point you decide to upgrade the body, then you are stuck with the same brand unless you want to buy all your lenses again or compromise the quality by using an adapter. Also, using an adapter you may get compatibility issues with some lenses, particularly for autofocus or image-stabiliser functions. I would seriously recommend going for either Canon or Nikon, they are by far the best when it comes to DSLR's and with the widest availability of 3rd party lenses, you can get much higher quality lenses for less than with other manufacturers! From what I've seen of the Sony's, they are also very good, but I'm not convinced of Sony's long term commitment, although they are being widely accepted by the 3rd party lens manufacturers so that's a good sign. The entry level Canon is the 1000D, Nikon is the D3000, both of which can be bought with an 18-55 lens for around the £350 mark. If you don't want to stretch that far, then have a look on ebay for a 2nd hand one. Many people buy and then upgrade very quickly, or just find they don't use it enough, so you can get some great 2nd hand kit that's almost never been used! You may even be able to afford a higher spec body than the entry levels within your budget!

For shoes, the size is like any other shoe, ever one is a different size, so trying on in a shop is always a good idea! SPD pedals can be lethal when you're just starting out. Very easy to forget you're clipped in when you get to a junction and you end up falling over sideways Once you get used to them though, they really are great, being able to pull as well as push on the pedals really lets you get more power down and particularly helps going up hills! You can get single sided SPD pedals with SPD on one side and a normal pedal on the other, or alternatively you can also get pedal inserts that clip into the SPD pedal to work like a normal pedal. Really helps when you're starting out as you can always go back to a normal pedal when things get tricky!

Bit of both I think! I posted a thread about a wagon GT I saw at my dealers a few weeks ago! http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=147337 The new Legacy really is a big car, similar size to an A6! As for the girl, she maybe a bit small, but it wouldn't put me off She has a website too http://jessilang.com/

Yes, there were quite considerable safety improvements from classic to new age cars, particularly for side impacts. You'll notice the top of the door is higher and the side windows are therefore much smaller on the new-age cars due to the improved side impact beams. I believe the A, B and C pillars are also stronger to improve roll-over protection. Generally though, Subaru's have always been very solidly built and are one of the safest vehicles around for any particular age, particularly when you factor in the performance of the Impreza. Obviously with each generation of any car safety is always improved over time, the major improvements come with the major body changes, so classic to new age and new age to hatch all bring major steps forward. Over the life of the new age cars, the major improvements have been to pedestrian impact safety, particularly with the hawk-eye, and the addition of in-seat airbags.

Hmm, think I'm on there, but no FB at work to check!

Lol, they are very good

Anything above 2% from the original tyre size requires a speedo recalibration! Not to mention the handling will be completely off!

Welcome to the club

Welcome :thumup:

...all over the world too

Was down the Subaru dealer the other day getting the summer tyres put back on and centre stage in the showroom was this bad boy! My God it looks nice in the flesh!!! Its a Legacy 2.5 GT (known elsewhere as the B4). Its not officially on sale in the EC! This nice example was imported from Russia and is fully kitted out - 265PS, Auto box with flappy paddles on the steering wheel, fully electric seats with 2 position memories, sat nav, carbon interior trim, lowered springs +++. I was half tempted to trade in the hatch If it had 330PS, I probably would have

Bought mine 02/2008, fitted PPP 11/2008, now have over 42000km on the clock and no hint of a problem!

I guess volcanoes and elections are overshadowing our unimportant saints day! I'd love to join you on the English Ale tonight, but the nearest thing I can get round here is Irish beer - as good as that is, its not quite right on Georges day! Maybe if I put an England top on then it will balance it a bit

Welcome to the forum

Very nice

I think Red Bull are doing McLaren proud this year

Welcome to the club

Was the battery still connected to the car when you had it with the battery conditioner? If it was still wired up to the car, then its likely to be the battery and the conditioner will only work properly when the battery is disconnected from the car. My dad has a Morgan which he does about 500 miles a year in over the summer, the rest of the time he has the battery on a conditioner and has been running the same battery for years!

There are for sale sections on the site, but their use is restricted to club members and established forum users. We don't allow people to just join the forum and start selling stuff as a measure to protect our members from scammers. As such, forum newbies cannot post in the for sale forums. Any for sale posts outside of the for sale forums will be deleted!

So you want a tutorial This is a nice tool for demonstrating depth of field http://www.tamron.com/lenses/learning_cent...-comparison.php Once the images have loaded, drag the little blue arrows on each scale to see the effects! For the most dramatic depth of field, you want a low f number and a high focal length. The "Focal length" on the bottom axis is basically the amount you've zoomed in and relates to the numbers on your zoom lens. So if you've got a 28-80 lens, then the focal length is 28mm when fully zoomed out and 80mm when fully zoomed in. Aperture (or f-stop) on the right side determines how much light is let into the lens - the smaller the number (larger aperture), the more light is let in. Normally only the largest aperture is written in the lens spec (e.g. 28-80 f3.5-5.5 or 28-80 f4). If you have a zoom lens that gives a range of f-numbers, then these are the maximum apertures when the lens is fully zoomed out or fully zoomed in. If there is only one f number, then the same maximum aperture is maintained throughout the zoom (focal) range. Normally, when you zoom in, less light can get into the lens, so to get the correct exposure you're forced to either use a larger aperture (f-stop) or slow the shutter speed. For motorsport, slowing the shutter may not be an option, so the only other way to get a smaller aperture is to increase the ISO. A wee note on ISO: The ISO number relates to traditional film speeds. It essentially states how fast the film will react to light hitting it. A low ISO film consists of very fine "grains" which reacts slowly to light. A high ISO film has larger grains which react to light much more quickly. In a digital camera, you have pixels not grains and they always react to light at the same speed (pretty much instantly), so actually ISO in a digital camera is meaningless. However, traditional film photographers like ISO as an extra tool to get the pictures they want, so in digital cameras with adjustable ISO, the ISO effect is simulated in the image processing! This means that you can get away with higher ISO values on a DSLR than you could on a film SLR without suffering so much from the graining effect! pmacFTO has a perfect demonstration of using depth of field in his cat photo a couple of pages back... in fact looking back at a lot of his photo's, he uses depth of field to great effect! Another wee tip for most Canon SLR users (I'm sure Nikon has a similar function but no idea how its done): Normally, when you're looking through the view finder setting up your picture, the lens aperture is fully open. The camera only locks down the aperture when you take the photo, so you don't see the depth of field effect until after you've taken the picture. There is usually however a really well hidden "depth of field preview" button on the lower left side of the lens mount (on the camera body, not the lens itself). When you press this, the lens is locked down to the selected f-stop and you can see the depth of field effect through the viewfinder before you take the shot!

You should try using a higher ISO speed, particularly when zooming. A higher ISO value will allow a lower f stop to be used for a given shutter speed which in turn will reduce the depth of field and help highlight the subject of the photo by blurring the background. Alternatively, you can use a faster shutter speed with the same f stop which will reduce blurring on fast moving subjects. Or of course a combination of both can greatly improve results. The trade off of course is a more grainy picture the higher the ISO value, although I don't really find it a problem on DSLRs until you go above ISO 800 and also depends a lot on the subject anyway. Its really easy to forget about ISO values, but its are really useful tool to dramatically improve your shots, particularly in low light!

Gosh, I wish my Android phone could do that.... oh wait a minute...

Welcome aboard! Nice looking motor