Highlander68000

Just don't let Russell near a 'hacksaw' []

I've never had to on the harnesses that I've had.

You need to get your heed right under there. (A torch is handy too). IIRC it's a large white connector and is likely to have the thickest wires of the bunch on them. On the ones I've fitted (I bought a job lot once and fitted many too) , the connector was slightly to the right of the steering column centre. It is easy to reach and easy to unplug too.

Yes, they are the same. I think the piston seal kits are about £30 new (that's what I was quoted once), so that doesn't seem a bad price.

Another classic example of me mis-reading the post [:$] Sorry If the fans do come on, I would definitely say there is a lack of water in the system. The effect you describe is exactly the same as sometimes happens when water is low. I think it is just under 7 litres to fill up the water system from completely empty - I can't remember off the top of my head. How much did you have to put in?

The highlghted pipe is the one I'm talking about to remove one end of.

You need to get more water in there and remove all airlocks! I have successfully used the following method: Remove radiator >>> header tank small return pipe. (connects to top of radiator and I remove whatever is the easiest end.) 1) Top up water as much as possible. 2) Squeeze and hold top large radiator hose. 3) Put finger over end of hole at the radatior end and let go of top hose 4) Repeat 2 and 3, topping up header tank as necessary. 4a) When the system is full, water should pop out of the hole/pipe at the top of the radiator when you squeeze the hose. 5) Run the car for a couple of minutes - with heater on full. 6) Stop and repeat topping-up procedure if necessary. This is slow, but what it essentially does is sucks the water from the header tank around the engine. If you don't cover the hole, you just suck air when you let go of the top hose. I hope this makes sense. --- Jon

It is more than possible. Not difficult, but maybe long winded. Is the list of stuff you want to display long?

I agree

£175 just for the pump from RCMS (+p&p) Insane Clown - the old one must have been buggered or Andy has put different oil in. The roger clark pumps (like all the others) are nothing more than OEM pumps with modifications to the pressure relief part of it (which makes no noise that you could ever hear). There are no modifications to the impellor or the housing.

The 'Modified' pump is completely different to the Jun pump. RCMS, GGR, API and Performance Subaru offer modified pumps. I am reliably informed that these pumps are 'tweaked' to prevent any problems with the pressure valve sticking open and to ensure that the impellor housing does not come loose. They do not flow any more oil than the more-than-adequate original. The Jun pump is a high flow pump, which is different to the above. Loss of flow in high-G situations is another problem which should be addressed for car that will be used regularly in that situation. Engine rebuilds benefit from using STi9 (?) bearings and are highly recommended by many of the tuners (that's what they tell me anyway).

What is going on with this picture? The left and right edges are blurred and everything else seems to be in focus (sort of). It's freaky!

I had them fail rapidly on my WRX and would never use them again. EBC aftersales customer support sucks too!

Warby, it is a superb camera. As with any camera, it's not how good it is, it's what you do with it [] Col - I love the winter scene (3rd picture)

As a infrequent visitor to Scotland to meet the SSIDC, I've always found everyone as friendly as anywhere else I've been in England. I've also been places which are very cliquey and unwelcoming to newcomers and SSIDC are a far cry from that (in my experience). There are many ways that can improve matters, with all clubs, and it is usually up to the event organisers to do what they are there to do. Some team games that get strangers interacting never go amiss. (remember FOCUS you GSF chaps!) Personally, I can't wait to come back! --- Jon