oz *sti*

O.k. – from the knowledge I have from previously working in the insurance industry. Yes they can decline any policy at renewal that is there right as a company; there are loads of different influencing factors which are taken into account when a premium is calculated. If these factors change during a policy year or if the risk changes then the insurance company will try and safe guard themselves and not offer a renewal. I do understand that you did state that these claims are non-fault claims and as such means you are not at fault for the incident, but when it comes to insurance, it has been statistically proven to show that drivers involved in a non fault claim will go on and make further fault claims. Again I’m not saying you will, this is just the stats. If you’re insurance company has told you or it is shown on paper work as a non-fault claim then that’s what your renewal will be rated on. The only time that would differ is if there is any dispute regarding liability then the claim would be noted as a fault claim, then once settled would then show as either a fault or non fault depending which way it has been settled. Sorry I’m not passing on good news.

Soz Neil, inbox now empty. What the best way to check for a spark from the plugs...? Is it just a case of taking a lead off the plug, getting someone to try and start to see if there is a spark and then moving onto the next and so one, or is there more involved?

Thanks for the replys guys, I will check the earth in the morning to make sure that is o.k. And will also try the putting the Jump lead from the Negative to the inlet manifold, is there anywhere best on the manifold to connect it to?

The car has got a clifford concept 650 alarm + immobiliser. With the new battery the car is wanting to turn over after about 8 / 10 sec of trying to start, it trys to spark up but does not take and then goes back to trying to turn over. I don't have a battery charger, that's why I was thinking of towing and the bump start route. I'm not sure where to look on the Apexi hand unit for the Maf read? is that in Settings then itno Sensors etc... or some where else?

Hi all, About a week ago I put a post up saying I had been working away, and the car had been on the drive for about a week and the battery was the original that was in the car when I bought it 4years ago. Since then I've been away with work again this week only just back, I bought a new battery from Halfords today, which is the one it starts for Subaru Impreza Turbo which is a 460 amp battery. I fitted this about an hour ago, and yes I know it's very cold out there and the car has been lying for some time, but the engine still won't turn over. Oh forgot to say when I fitted the new battery the apexi hand unit read 12.6volts. When I would try and start it before all I would hear was tick, tick, tick. But when I tried to start the car with the new battery the engine was wanting to turn over, I just would not fire up that's all, tried this a few time but it would not fire up. When I went to look under the engine I could smell the petrol, so I recon the fuel pump is doing what it should...... but not sure what to do now...? Going to get the wife to tow me tomorrow morning, to see if it can be jump started with a little help by being on the move. Any thoughts Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the comments guys, just back in from the car, I put the ignition on the the hand unit was reading 10.1 volts, As you may expect it did not start. Also as you would expect when I put the lights / radio / and inside lights on the volt went right done to about the 5.7volt mark. Me thinks it could be new battery time.

I've being away with work all of last week, got home on Sat morning, went out to start the car to start it up and there was nothing, all I could hear was the fuel pump, and when I did turn the key, there was just a tick, tick, tick maybe from the starter (the Apexi hand unit was reading 11.7 volt). So I got the wife to tow me out and got the car jump started let it run for about 40 mins. When I went out to the car this morning and it started first go, then went to start it this afternoon and nothing again, same again I can hear the fuel pump, and when I turn the key all i get is tick, tick, tick, tick from the what I think is the starter motor. So tried to get towed and jump it again, but then engine would not even start up when being towed??? The apexi handing unit this afternoon was reading 11.1 volt. It is the origanal Jap battery from when I got the car 4 years ago. Does it sound like I just need to bite the bullet and get a new battery? Thanks in advance.

Hi there mate, I left my job as an insurance broker yesterday and had been doing that for 7 years. As far as we have been made aware through the company I used to work for, information is transferred onto M.I.D (Motor Insurance Database) midnight of when the policy goes live, so if the policy starts on the 1st November, we would transfer the details onto M.I.D midnight of the 1st November. If you are trying to tax the car online and the policy has not started as yet then that would be why the information has not been transferred as yet and you can not tax the car online. If your policy on the other hand has started and is not showing on M.I.D then I would contact your insurance company and they may have to update M.I.D manually. Hope this helps, Alan.

O.k. guys `n’ girls looking for some advice, what is the best or easiest way to re-fill the coolant without leaving air in the system? I usually just slowly fill the coolant through the header tank, once down I squeeze top and bottom radiator pipes to try and get rid of any air in the system. (Oh I don’t have a heater matrix, so don’t need to worry about putting the heating on hot to help get rid of the air, as I don’t know what hot is anymore – lol) I have heard of people re-filling through the turbo water pipe, the one going from the header tank to the turbo??? Anyone got any experience with this method??? I did speak to RCM today as I was buying some goodies from them, and they said when they change coolant they remove a pipe that allows the air to escape, but they did not tell me where the pipe is? Anyone know this method at all??? Anyone else got any easy methods on how to get the air out of the system when re-filling the coolant? Thanks in advance, Alan.

Alright Craig, As fare as I know I bled / drained it all, I just undone the bottom hose, took that off let the old coolant empty - put the new pipes on and filled through the header tank. I left about 3/4 inch gap in the top of the header tank to allow for expansion. Alan.

Yeah just tried that mate. From cold there was a little water, putting that down to rain and any condensation in the exhaust. Maybe not a good move and not to be recommended but I tasted some of the water and no coolant taste. When warm there was no water at all. Alan.

I need to bug your brains some more guys. I had a problem about 2 weeks ago when the top radiator pipe burst on me when I was coming of the motorway, the temp on the Apexi hand unit did not go above 100, I mamaged to get the car home. I drained the old coolant. Upon fitting the new pipes to the radiator, I filled the system that evening left it over night to allow the coolant to settle and then checked it the next morning to find it had dropped a little but not much, I topped to up and all was good. What I notice now after taking the car for a bit of a blast and being in boost some on the coolant is being pushed into the expansion bottle, when I finish a run I do notice the coolant in the expansion bottle is going up and down and has bubbles coming out of it, but no coolant coming out of the expansion overflow pipe. I took it for a slightly harder run yesterday and when I checked the expansion bottle, there was a drop (and I mean only a tea-spoon amount) of coolant that had come out of the overflow pipe from the expansion bottle. Anyone got any thoughts on this or what could be causing this??? Head Gaskets…. Air Lock…. Radiator Cap…. Water Pump…. Etc, etc….. Oh I had the head Gaskets changed about 3yrs ago, when I had the block and heads skimmed, up-graded gaskets used and up-graded to APR head bolts. Any thoughts Welcome.

Anyone else got any thoughts on the matter?

I recently put up a post to say that the top radiator hose had split and coolant went everywhere. Well I have managed to get new pipes and have re-filled the coolant system. When the pipe originally burst the coolant went all over the headers / up-pipe which are covered in heat wrap. I went out this afternoon to start the car and bring it up to temp, to allow the water / coolant to burn off, but after about 55 mins to an hour the headers still had lots of steam coming of them, ( not nice as all I can now taste now is coolant ). So my question is should I just allow the headers / up-pipe to dry the wrap? If so how long should this take?? and is it safe??? Or Would it be safer and better just to take the headers off and take the heat wrap off and put some new wrap on??? Cheers, Alan.

Seafa99 did your head gaskets go as a knock on effect, or was it just a case of replace the pipe and that was you? The headgaskets on my V3 STI, went about 3yrs ago and I got Greersport to skim the heads and the block and fit an upgraded gasket (steel I think, not 100% sure). So I thought the heads should still be o.k.