craigdmcd

For an MOT, the engine size doesn't matter at all when it comes to emissions.

Craig

(MOT inspector)

I had Brembo's on the WRX, and fitted DBA5000 discs and bells with DS2500 pads, absolutely awesome but no real difference in price to anyone else's quality set-up.

I've been out in both Tein and BC suspended cars, and neither set-up came close to the KW's. It's just a shame that big Diesel Hands isn't here any more, as the set-up is on his Terzo now.

When it comes to mods for your own car, I'm a firm believer in afford the best that you can.

6 speed boxes seem strange for a while, but when you get used to it, watch how much of an aR5e of yorself when you go back to a 5. I keep almost hitting reverse in my "new" punto runabout since the missus got rid of her 407 coupe and I gave her my Mondeo TDCi.

BTW, that is a gorgeous STi

I can't really comment on Ace Tyres, but do know that when buying a Newage, I bought WRX instead of a STi as I thought the suspension on a STi was too stiff and uncompromising. I realise that money is tight when a new addition is imminent, but I had a set of KW coilovers on a classic I had, and the initial dampimg on them was fantastic, and would make an STi a far better day to day family car.

If you can fit the seats in, a BP model JDM Legacy 2.0 Spec B tourer, they have the twin-scoll turbo and can be tuned like the Impreza's. Hunt on the UKLegacy.com for one, pretty gorgeous IMHO.

If you are desperately looking for 3 individual seats, then the Ford S-Max Titanium is a fabulous vehicle, and drives really well also.

What size of budget are you on, how many miles will it do per week, and do you know there are different models of Subarus apart from Imprezas?

Actually, I think you aren't going to win this one. The problem with backs is that due to lack of use, the rear brake pad 9usually the inside one) corrodes along it's edges, and sticks to the caliper, seizing it bad enough that the piston will struggle to push it close to the disc, and then causing the disc to corrode on it's inner surface. And Ian Grieve's get out clause is that you have had very lttle use of the car, and most probably was the car regularly washed, so promoting the corrosion to seize the pad.

http://www.finchmotorsport.co.uk/page.php?a=3&s=69&p=69 .Have a look at the bottom of this link .This company are doing a closed deck EJ257 so to me looks like a machined insert in water gallery ie the way the block top looks or speak to Andy at Ra about the engine Agra built him for the race car he had

I saw this down at Litchfield Imports almost 2 years ago, although I believe he was also trying to work out how to get full blocks made as a closed deck rather than inserting or machining standard blocks. I believe the cost was very high though.

You need the bolts for the Brembos as the 4pot bolts have a different thread pitch. Very expensive from Subaru IIRC

Just head down with a van and some boys for the interior, put it in the van and drive off, then when the police show up, show the receipt for the money paid to him and that he has nothing to complain about as he was pre-paid

I wish you could all remember the "d" in the middle, as no-one can ever contact me.

Kenny, that's the number for the "ahem" ""Sports Massage Parlour"" that you frequent!

Got a newage one and one from a MY98 classic, just need to get either from Paisley or Newarthill

No 1 is the main power feed that comes from the positive on the battery, No 2 is a spade terminal that comes from the wiring loom directly behind the starter. It usually has a black plastic cover on it.

Hope this helps

Well, there are quite a few headaches when Dual AVCS heads from a 2008 car are on your engine that you intend putting in your 2005 engine bay. A fair bit of magic is going to be required. Still going to have BIIGGGGGGG power though.

I can't really supply such a thing, but would happily have quoted for fitting

Hopefully not taking the heads off, just need to remove the exhaust side of the AVCS as it is proving to be a right pain in the backside to make work correctly. Apparently the exhaust side of the AVCS is only to improve emissions wheras the inlet side improves power and driveability through the rev range.

"We" are going to take the engine out, possibly put it on my (never previously used) BluePrint engine stand, twist it every way possible to try and finalise this so that when we install it again, we can just wire and plumb it and hopefully breathe some life in to it.

After that, finalise the front suspension and hopefully iron out any small niggles.

As if my life isn't chaotic enough without taking on this head scratcher!!!!

I love them goats

Easy, just source an engine from a Veyron - Job done!

Make the guy an offer on this STi bottom end, get a set of Cosworth head gaskets, new uprated oil pump, new gasket set, timing belt kit and the jobs a good 'un. Including labour, around £2000-2200 has it covered. After that, off to Trackhound Tuning to get a nice new map.

A quick rundown on the parts that are required to do the job "right first time"!

Cosworth or similar metal head gaskets - approx £150

Full set of Subaru Cam seals,rocker gaskets, and all other gaskets to make engine fluid tight without resorting to using sealer everywhere - approx £250

New Gates timing belt, tensioner and pulley kit - £195 from ICP

Quality oil and filter - £50

And if you want to make sure, a uprated oil pump - approx £150

£800 in parts alone

Then how much in labour?

Why does it need a waterpump? Subaru's aren't common for waterpump failure, and at that age, there is not a high likelyhood of any wear.

Yeah just off the phone to scottish subarus and he has quoted me 600-800 for gaskets,headbolts,timing belt,water pump,oil and oil filter

Add up the price for fitting quality parts and see what it all comes to, then ask the labour rate and the expected time for doing (you shouldn't really have seizure time on a car of your age)

The thing to watch for when getting an engine rebuilt is what quality are the parts that are getting fitted, and to what standard does the mechanic do his work. With Duncan you will get top quality work from somebody that was a Master-Tech at main dealer level.

If you want to go for pistons, then drop in ones are dead easy with the heads off on a Scooby, no more than 2 hours extra labour to do correctly. If it is performance pistons that need honed/machining then it need the bottom end split and an extra 8-10 hours is involved.

As a friend that used to be a Prodrive Mechanic (and hence new his worth) told me - "If You pay peanuts, then you will only ever get monkey's to work for you!"

BTW, Head gaskets are approx 12-14 hours honest work, so realistically 2 days work.

I've got a slightly ageing Canon EOS300D and it does awesome pics for a photographer of my standard. I'm guessing the newest model (an EOS550D I think)would be pretty cool.