Carson Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 got a full system ready to go on. mani and up, down n centre, tastie backbox. any ideas on how much heat wrap ill need? and if you can spare some DIY manifold remove and cat remove tips ill be on my way to piss the neighbours off dos and donts me plz:) chris
wilky Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 got a full system ready to go on. mani and up, down n centre, tastie backbox.any ideas on how much heat wrap ill need? and if you can spare some DIY manifold remove and cat remove tips ill be on my way to piss the neighbours off dos and donts me plz:) chris Depends on what size of rolls you buy but as a rule of thunb 3 rolls for the headers and up pipe and a roll and a bit for the down pipe. Initially I heat wrapped the downpipe to the flange however it soon wears away so next time im only going as far as just above the bend under the car. heat wrap will eventually get worn and fall off headers, its a fact of life. To try and make it last longer spray it with high temp paint once fitted. Soak it in water before fitting which will give a tighter fit once it drys naturally before you paint it. There is no easy way to do it. I always use metal ties to hold it on but I have seen it wire locked on, ie wrap lock wire every so often to help keep it in place. Try to keep it as even as you can and dont be economic with it or it will end in tears. Best way round it is ceramic coating but it is expensive so unless you have a big budget stick with heat wrap. Dont shear the nuts on the back of the turbo, and makesure no wires etc (lamda, o2 etc etc) are touching the exhaust once fitted, keep them well away. Also make sure its all tightened up correctly, I once had my engine hearing knock and pulling ignition advance, I eventually found out it was my exhaust vibrating on a mounting I hadnt tightened up correctly. Hope this helps! Callum W
ciaranrb5 Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 Depends on what size of rolls you buy but as a rule of thunb 3 rolls for the headers and up pipe and a roll and a bit for the down pipe. Initially I heat wrapped the downpipe to the flange however it soon wears away so next time im only going as far as just above the bend under the car.heat wrap will eventually get worn and fall off headers, its a fact of life. To try and make it last longer spray it with high temp paint once fitted. Soak it in water before fitting which will give a tighter fit once it drys naturally before you paint it. There is no easy way to do it. I always use metal ties to hold it on but I have seen it wire locked on, ie wrap lock wire every so often to help keep it in place. Try to keep it as even as you can and dont be economic with it or it will end in tears. Best way round it is ceramic coating but it is expensive so unless you have a big budget stick with heat wrap. Dont shear the nuts on the back of the turbo, and makesure no wires etc (lamda, o2 etc etc) are touching the exhaust once fitted, keep them well away. Also make sure its all tightened up correctly, I once had my engine hearing knock and pulling ignition advance, I eventually found out it was my exhaust vibrating on a mounting I hadnt tightened up correctly. Hope this helps! Callum W When your stating how many rolls u need what width and length are you talking about? I have a roll in the shed which is 3" wide and 40ft long suppose thats enough for my down pipe
wilky Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 When your stating how many rolls u need what width and length are you talking about?I have a roll in the shed which is 3" wide and 40ft long suppose thats enough for my down pipe I had the smaller rolls and dont think they were that wide, its a feckin nightmare trying to work with the wide stuff
ciaranrb5 Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 I had the smaller rolls and dont think they were that wide, its a feckin nightmare trying to work with the wide stuff not if you take your time with plenty overlap means u actually have less wraps to do because it covers a greater area. Plus down pipes are easy it's headers and manifolds that are a mare no matter the wrap width
wilky Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) not if you take your time with plenty overlap means u actually have less wraps to do because it covers a greater area. Plus down pipes are easy it's headers and manifolds that are a mare no matter the wrap width As I said, its a feckin nighmare. If you fancy doing mine give me a shout, you seem quite happy with it! Edited January 13, 2009 by Wilky
ciaranrb5 Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 As I said, its a feckin nighmare.If you fancy doing mine give me a shout, you seem quite happy with it! behave now im not that good
craigdmcd Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Chris, so you can see the difference, here are my GT-B headers, very carefully wrapped and painted and my new RCM headers coated by Zircotec sorry for the slightly hazy pics, but a 5 megapixel phone just doesn't match up to a 35mm DSLR Edited January 13, 2009 by craigdmcd
ciaranrb5 Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 Chris, so you can see the difference, here are my GT-B headers, very carefully wrapped and painted and my new RCM headers coated by Zircotec sorry for the slightly hazy pics, but a 5 megapixel phone just doesn't match up to a 35mm DSLR They look brilliant Zircotec coated but it's just to bloody expensive and i would chip them installing them!! Can you wrap on top of that coating for double insulation?
craigdmcd Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 They look brilliant Zircotec coated but it's just to bloody expensive and i would chip them installing them!! Can you wrap on top of that coating for double insulation? I was down at the Autosport show, and was talking to the boys on the Zircotec stand, when they showed me an exhaust from a racing bike that had gone down on it's side. The exhaust was worn through where it had scrapped along the tarmac, but had not chipped of flaked, even where it had taken a bend. It was very impressive indeed, and made me very happy about going down this route. I would have liked one of the new colours available, but it was an extra £70, and I was already overbudget on them. I think you could heatwrap again, but I was lucky I didn't as I have very little clearance to the front crossmember, and the wrap might have chaffed away. I am very happy with them now, with the car feeling faster, although that is more down to my pockets being considerably lighter .
james04 Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 As I said, its a feckin nighmare.If you fancy doing mine give me a shout, you seem quite happy with it! heat wrap is best put on when wet. put the rolls in a bucket of warm water for 20 mins before wraping as it will go on tigther.
Carson Posted February 1, 2009 Author Posted February 1, 2009 im going to batter this h&s pipe n headrs tomorrow and present wikid spool action. thanks for the input, I made my mind cheers above chris
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